Heading out of Sarria
Camino January 2026
Friday January 30, 2026
Sarria to Portomarin – 13.7 miles
Today’s weather forecast was for the heavy rain to return about 9AM, with 1” forecast and the rains to stop by 1PM. I started out about 8:30 figuring I had 4 hours of rain either way. The hotel I stayed at had an attached restaurant that opened at 7:30. While I was eating the 3 pilgrims I saw yesterday walked in. They all met on the trail, a gentleman from Australia and 2 American women. The talkative of the two women started in Pamplona the same day I started in St Jean. They took off hiking before me, but I did catch them about a mile up the trail. They were debating whether to take an alternate route when I went by.
Sure enough the rains started about 9. At first it was a gentle rain, but soon it was raining hard. There were 4 places that the trail was flooded to the point there was no way to pass without getting your feet totally wet. At the first spot there was an international group of young people (I would guess college) that were debating what to do. I rock hopped across the stream but then went into a field. The field was totally saturated as well. OK, now I don’t have to worry about keeping my feet dry, so future crossings were much easier. In a couple places I walked along the top of a stone wall. You could either be frustrated by all this or embrace the adventure.
A few times the rain would let up and I would think the rain was about to stop. Then it would start pouring again. My phone was put away, so no pictures and no idea what time it was. Right at the 100 km to go marker there was a great vending machine stop. It was under cover, so I stopped in and got a hot chocolate. I checked the time, only 11:30. Oh well. I was hoping it was later. It was pouring hard, so I stayed about 20 minutes. Now back out to finish the last 5 miles to Portomarin.
Soon enough the rain stopped and the sun actually tried to come out. It was nice to walk the last hour without the rain. After arriving in Portomarin I checked in and put on dry clothes. I stopped by a restaurant to get lunch, then stopped at a grocery store for snacks. I then went to the laundromat, but it was closed. I just wanted to use the dryer. By this time the rains had started back up, so I went back to my room and just hung up all my stuff. Tomorrow is forecast to stay dry, so that will be nice.
I did see a few other pilgrims today, but between weather and language there was no real conversations. This was a tough first day for the ones who started in Sarria. I love the Galician countryside, so the scenery was beautiful.
Saturday January 31, 2026
Portomarin to Palas de Rei – 15.8 miles
Today’s forecast was for a 10% chance of a shower mid morning, but partly sunny and upper 40s. Sure enough the rain did come about 10AM, but only for about 15 minutes. I did get a pretty rainbow out of it though. Otherwise it was dry all day!
I feel the path has been quieter this year from SJPdP to Sarria than last year. But this year it seems like there are a lot of people now, who started in Sarria. Yesterday I saw a group of 10 or so Asians. Today there was a group of at least 15 local young Spanish kids. I also saw the 2 Americans with the Aussie, a friendly Italian. As well as 5 or 6 Korea’s who are not in a group.
About 8 miles into the day there was an open café. These tend to be a collecting spot for pilgrims. That is exactly how it worked today. I had a Cola Cao and a hot egg sandwich. Now off to finish the final 8 miles.
The terrain was up and down. Nothing big or steep. The path is very green as you will see in the pictures. There are a lot of amazing stone walls in this area. Just before the café I walked through Castromaior. A settlement from 6BC. It is amazingly intact and you can walk right through it. It is very cool.
I arrived at the hotel a bit after 2PM. They had sent me a text with a code to the front door and my room number (12) with a code. And instructions to turn on the heat in my room. I got to the front door and could not get in. I called the number I had, she spoke only Spanish, and finally she just buzzed me in. I am not sure where she is, but no one is in this building. The room code worked fine. I turned the heat on, so the room will be warm soon. The shower turns out to be one of the best I have had this trip. There is space to move a little. Most showers are very small. There is great pressure and the water is very hot. The Spaniards love their water hot. Best of all it is a typical shower head that sprays out at an angle. I have had a lot of the rainfall style showers, which I don’t like and at least 3 times it has been a hand held only shower. Nowhere to clip it to the wall.
I went out in search of food. The code I had been given still did not open the front door, so I called again. This time she was able to get something fixed, so my code did work. With her still on the phone I ran upstairs to make sure my door code still worked. All good. Now I can come and go as I please. I am the only person in the building. I am getting used to that. OK, now for the food search. One bar was open and their kitchen would open at 6:30. Too late for me to go out for a meal. So, off to the local Dia. I needed snacks and breakfast anyway, so I picked up a fresh baked roll and some cheese. On the way I saw a China Bazar. They sell just about anything you may need. I needed a new charging cable for my computer. No problem. It was starting to rain again, so back to the hotel.
Travel is the perfect catalyst for tolerance and acceptance. – Author unknown
Gary and Elizabeth's Adventures 