I want to feel your hand in mine as we walk through life together. ~Unknown
Vilamaior to Santiago – 5.4 Miles
June 23
E: We got going by 7 AM and arrived in Santiago about 9:30. We took some pictures but will be returning in the afternoon as the sun was behind the cathedral this morning.
A statue of a Templar Knight – guardian of pilgrims 
Well known sign as you walk into the start of town . Bronze art to right. 
Monastery of San Martin Pinario, 12th century, takes up 5 acres! Just before you come to the main cathedral 
North entrance of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, across from the monastery 
The western facing side of the cathedral moments after we entered the plaza 
We went to the pilgrims office and got our Compostela. We carried a credential/booklet you keep with you while on the Camino. You get a sello (stamp) inked into this multi folded Camino passport at restaurants, lodging, churches and food trucks. This credential is checked at the pilgrim’s office in Santiago to show you got roughly two stamps per day from start to finish. In our case Saint Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago. The Compostelas, our certificates that we completed our walk, and a sample of our Camino passport/credential are pictured below. The Compostelas are are written in Latin.
We checked into our hotel which is less than a block from the cathedral. You are not allowed to bring your large packs into the cathedral, day packs only, and our room was not ready, so we left our bags at the hotel.
We headed to the noon mass located in the Altar Mayor, the main alter, largest seating area, not in a side chapel -of which there are several. Each side chapel had confessions going on in different languages… German, Dutch, French, English, Italian and Spanish. There were four masses offered throughout today, listed on a schedule we asked for at the Pilgrim Office, where we got our Compostela.
A side chapel inside the cathedral 
Another side chapel. Amazing hand painted art on the ceilings 
Bronze art on a wooden door. 
All the small chapels within the cathedral had confessions taking place in many languages, hence the chair. 
Natural light through the windows above the main alter at about 11AM – hand painted gold. Two huge organs above, in foreground 
Just before noon mass on the eve of St John, June 23 
Close up of the gold laden main alter with the silver Botafumeiro (incense burner) hanging 
Natural light above the main alter and between the organs at about 11:30AM 
The main Alter’s ceiling…just, wow!
We got to see the Botafumeiro, the swinging of the incense in the cathedral!! I have been to Santiago 4 times and this was the first time I got to experience it. It really made my Camino complete. They used to swig it at the end of each Friday evening mass but they have stopped that due to increased costs. They now only swing it on holy dates/special occasions or if someone pays $500 euro. We were lucky enough to see it as there were large numbers of school groups and a couple tour groups that we assume contributed. They also “pass the hat” during the service. The simple history of the incense swinging was to decrease smell and disease of the pilgrims who attended the mass centuries ago.
The Botafumeiro hangs from the ceiling above the main Alter 
There are four separate wings of these rows of pews. Total capacity is 1,200. Noon mass was standing room only! 
Gentleman holding the Botafumiero to get it started swinging 
Men to left pulling and releasing to swing the incense 
See Botafumeiro at ceiling height at top of picture 
It returned toward us and swung to ceiling above our heads 
Stopping the swinging. So cool!!!
We ate at a café on the street late afternoon, returned to our hotel and were able to check in. We took a nap and headed out to take part in the Festival de San Xuan (Saint John in English) which occurs each June 23rd.
Santiago – June 24
E: Last night we fulfilled many of our goals regarding taking part in the celebration of Saint John. (Festival de San Xuan in Galician Spanish). We are told he is the brother of Saint James who is supposedly buried (or some of his remains reside) in Santiago at the cathedral. The main reason, for centuries, why pilgrims walk to the Cathedral in Santiago.
We left our room just after 8PM to wander the streets in search of music and festive gatherings. We weaved through old town taking in the outdoor makeshift grills cooking up chicken, ribs and local sardines. Each neighborhood had a bar “in the street” with speakers blaring dance/festive music. We made our way to the location the tourist office suggested, Praza (square) Mazarelos. They had bagpipe music, Galician traditional dance, a magic and puppet show and bars open with tables and chairs on the sidewalks around the square. After waiting some time, we found an empty table and enjoyed a sangria and cervasa con limon (beer with lemon soda). Children were playing on monuments and on stone walls, families were pushing baby carriages and chasing toddlers throughout the square. We stayed there until close to 10:30. Our intentions were to go to the square up by the cathedral, closer to our hotel, to listen to a concert that we were told occurred every night from 10 PM to Midnight. When we got to the Plaza Del Obroadoio there were no musicians there. We are assuming that because it was a festival night and there were events throughout the city, these musicians were taking part in the fiesta. Hopefully we can hear them tonight.
Papa and his daughter, just sweet 
Another Dad and his wife and two girls on festival day 
The cathedral later in the day as more tourists and pilgrims arrive into Santiago 
The east side of the cathedral. The line to the rt is to enter to see the church and the red tee shirts are a school group 
East side at roughly 8pm 
9PM party scene. Kids on the statues, bag pipe and additional musicians to left under festival sign 
Us sitting across the small street watching and listening to all the fun! 
Each small neighborhood within Santiago had beer and food to buy with electronic music 
Sardines – a tradition during St John’s eve festival 
Restaurants advertise their food in the old town 
Lemons in the fish’s mouths : ) 
Pulpo, octopus, is on almost every restaurant’s menu 
Carniceria, a butcher shop
E at the location of the Pilgrim Shadow in the afternoon…see next pic 
The light above rt., at the cathedral, shines just perfectly to reveal a pilgrim shadow. VERY cool! 
Santiago’s old town at 10:30PM 
Same street at 7:30AM the next morning! picked up and washed! 
The moon on the east side of cathedral at roughly 11PM 
11:30PM, rt before we headed for bed! They light the cathedral from across the plaza.
First day in 36, that we did not get up and walk. A bit strange but a good feeling as well. I slept in and Gary headed to the bus station a mile away to buy 3 tickets. We are being joined by our young friend from the Netherlands, Ninke (age 18) whom we have been connecting with for a couple of weeks. We met her in the square when she arrived into Santiago last night and she said she wanted to go to Fisterra with us in the morning.
I did not have coffee and breakfast until 9:30AM! Gary returned from his earlier, peaceful morning walk as all the festival goings on last night kept the numbers of pilgrims, tourists and locals out of the streets this morning.
We attended a 10:30AM English service at the chapel in the pilgrim’s office. There was a Jesuit priest from Ireland (a branch of the catholic church) who had finished a Camino 1/2 hour before he came to speak! And a catholic priest from the Philippines who lives in Santiago. At the direction of the priests, Pilgrims were asked to voice out loud a request for prayers. The well-wishing requests ranged from praying for a family whose son committed suicide to praying for those that serve us on the Camino…café owners, Albergue volunteers, etc. Humbling. There were only about 20 pilgrims in this mass and from other countries in addition to America. Australians, a German woman who spoke English but no Spanish, Ireland and more.
I enjoyed a couple hours shopping in the Old Town buying tee shirts for G and I, as we have been wearing the same 2 sets of clothes for 5 weeks now. I even came across a cute dress. Gary enjoyed some peace and quiet in the room researching our next adventures after we go to the end of the world and doing some work.
Santiago cont’d – June 24
E: What a great night in Santiago!
We went to the plaza at the cathedral looking for the musicians we did not find the night before… and they were there! The crowds were very thin a bit after 10PM but by that time we left, roughly 11PM, people who had gathered were dancing, singing to the Spanish songs that were being jovially performed by musicians. The musicians were picking a mandolin, squeezing an accordion, running all their fingers and thumb across the guitar strings as the 5 men’s voices echoed under the ancient thick stone walls. A pleasure to experience on our last night in Santiago! Thank you to my sister Katherine and our friend Donna for the pictures and suggestions of your own previous experiences in Santiago. The musicians, the pilgrim shadow, the festival of St John (San Xuan)… all contributed to our seeing, hearing and feeling this vibrant Camino city from the 800’s!!
Tomorrow we take the two hour bus ride out to the town of Fisterra. Stay tuned!
The thankful heart opens our eyes to a multitude of blessings that continually surround us. – James E. Faust
Not all those who wander are lost.
J. R. R. TOLKIEN
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