San Martin to Molinaseca

Sunrise leaving San Martin

Camino January 2026

Friday January 23, 2026

San Martin to Astorga – 14.5 miles

This morning I was walking the one mile to the bus station at 7:30 to catch an 8:00AM bus to San Martin, where I finished walking yesterday. The crews were out spreading salt as it was another icy morning. There was also a dusting of new snow. As we were are headed out of the city the snow started to really come down hard. There was a bad accident which slowed us down a bit. When I was dropped off in San Martin, Korea and mom were getting on. They were bussing to Astorga. I went into a local bar the put on my pack cover, etc, and 10 minutes later when I walked outside it had stopped snowing and the sun was coming out. Crazy.

The first 5 miles were again along the N120. The path is a dirt track, well off the road, but you still hear the trucks going by. At the 5 mile mark you reach Hospital de Orbigo. This is the home of the famous multi arch bridge. See photos. The next 8 miles are through rolling hills, well away from the road. There is a farm you pass through. Normally there are very young calves right by the trail. No calves today though. Soon after I caught 3 pilgrims and a dog. There is a 64 year old Spanish gentleman walking with a very sweet pup. She (the dog) was constantly going to the front of the 4 of us, then to the back.

One of our favorite stops on the Camino is a donativo spot 4 miles before reaching Astorga. They were “open” today. The Japanese pilgrim kept walking. Italy, Spain and I stopped. You will see in the photo that the gentleman had quite a variety of food and drinks available. I left 5 euro and took a few biscuit/cookies. Not quite sure what they are. He also has a dog. Both pups were great. I then headed out to complete the walk to Astorga. It started snowing again. My pack stayed nice and dry with my new pack cover.

I stopped at an Irish Pub once in Astorga to get some lunch. I ordered a German Hot Dog and French Fries. Quite the international culinary experience. Now on to the hotel to check in. I ran into Korea and mom again. I think we are staying at the same place tomorrow night.

Astorga is famous for chocolate, and the Chocolate Museum opened at 4:30. We typically don’t stay in Astorga, so I had never been. It was very interesting. Everything was in Spanish, so I missed a lot. There was a 20 minute video that had English subtitles, so it was very informative. The short version is a guy travelled to Mexico in the 1500s and brought back cocoa beans to Astorga. Astorga became the chocolate capital of Spain. In 1925 there were 51 chocolate factories in Astorga. Today the population is 10,000 people.

After the museum tour I headed to the outfitters to buy some new gloves. Last year I wished I had waterproof gloves, so this year that is what I brought. They have been fine to date, but tomorrow and the next day it will be in the 20s and snowing. And I still have O Cebreiro to go. Of course, by the time you are reading this I will be back down off the mountain and in Ponferrada. (Actually I am in Molinaseca now)

Saturday January 24, 2026

Astorga to Rabanal – 12.3 miles

The morning started out clear and 30 degrees. There was a fresh breeze that made it feel colder. I was glad I had my new gloves. Once I got walking, I was plenty warm. The snow was scheduled to return about noon. The first half of today is basically flat, then it starts a gradual climb. I have all the correct clothing for the weather, the trick is to be wearing the right stuff. I was very warm once I started climbing. I took my hands out of my gloves several times during the day to cool my hands down. My rain gear keeps me dry from the snow/rain, I just need to be careful not to get too warm and start sweating. Tomorrow I need to decide if I wear my fleece. I start with a climb, so I probably will stick with my T shirt, long sleeve and rain jacket. That has been my go to.

The plan today was to head to Foncebadon (elevation 4,660’). Turns out Mother Nature had a different plan. The snow and cold in Foncebadon caused the two places there to close. The town does not have any water. The town 3.5 miles before is Rabanal. There is just a municipal albergue open there. The woman who called me from Foncebadon to tell me to stay in Rabanal was very nice. She recommended walking the road tomorrow and not the trail. They supposedly have 18” of new snow. There will be several people staying here tonight going over the mountain tomorrow, so we will probably decide in the morning the best way to proceed. The road is currently plowed and the Camino is always very close to the road. I will probably do the road as I will be able to walk faster and keep my feet drier.

When you first get to the small town of Rabanal there is a little market across from a rest area. We have gotten snacks there in the summer and sat in the picnic area. The market was open when I came in to town, but I headed to the albergue to drop off my pack and get situated. When I returned to the little store the sign still said abierto (open), but the door was locked. I knocked, but no one came right away, so I started walking up the path to the supermarcado to get something to eat. I got about 100 feet away when the woman and her husband came out and welcomed me to come back. They did have pizza she cooked in the back. She set up a chair and a small table for me inside, taking up most of the floor space. No worries, no other customer came in the 40 minutes I was there. I chatted with the husband. He understood some English and I understand enough Spanish to have a fun conversation. He brought up how the winter is very different with the very few pilgrims. The supermarcado here is extremely small. I should have taken a picture, but I felt weird as the proprietor was talking to me the entire time I was in the store (in Spanish). I just got a muffin and chocolate milk for breakfast.

There are 5 of us at the albergue tonight. Korea and mom, Netherlands, who I met 2 hours into our walk (he makes origami animals) and another young man from the Netherlands who started his Camino today. All great people. I was the first to arrive, so I got the bed closest to the heater. There are plenty of blankets available, so sleeping tonight won’t be a problem. Korea and mom like to cook, so they will make dinner for the 5 of us tonight. We share the cost of the groceries. BTW – the cost to stay here is 10 euros, less than $12.

There are two bathrooms. No problem with 5 of us, but the capacity of this place is 38. One of the reasons I enjoy the quiet of the winter. Italy and the Spanish guy with the dog went over the mountain today. That is a long tough walk.

The power went out while they were making dinner. Netherlands tried calling the Hospitalero, but he did not answer. It was very windy, so I walked the town to see if we were all without power, but the supermarado did have electricity. Netherlands was speaking with a local who had another number and the Hospitalero did come back and fix the problem. It would have been a long cold night without power and heat.

Sunday January 25, 2026

Rabanal to Molinaseca – 16.6 miles

It was pouring rain and 36 degrees when I woke up. By the time I left at 8:15 the rain had stopped but the winds had picked up. I started out on the road. The first mile was OK, but the temperature had dropped to below freezing, so the road was very slippery. I decided to walk the snowy trail instead. The road and trail run close together. As I climbed, the snow depth increased quickly. I started today with my rain pants on, knowing it would be a wet cold day. Soon enough the snow was up to my knees in drifts. It made for tough going. Just before Foncebadon I cut over to the road and stayed there until I was below the snow level on the other side of the mountain (about 8 miles). When I arrived at the cruz de ferro (iron cross) it was almost a blizzard condition. Winds were 20 – 30 mph and it was snowing hard. The temperature was upper 20s, but felt much colder.

At the cruz, I said a quick prayer and dropped off a pair of wings and a shell I brought from Phoenix for a friend. She was diagnosed with cancer in 2014 and we have dropped something here for her in 2015, 16, 19, 23, 24, 25 and now 26. She is in remission and doing very well. Another friend had a recent set back on his cancer treatments, so after Elizabeth told me a few days ago I have been looking for a nice stone to bring to the cruz for him. I found a pretty white quartz stone outside Astorga. Hopefully he will similar benefits.

I switched my gloves at this point. My hands were very cold after taking pictures, etc at the cruz. The next several miles you walk along a ridge. I saw 3 snow plows and zero cars as I walked the road through here. I had put my phone away, so not many photos today. It was a spectacular winter landscape, but the high winds made the walking difficult I joked to myself that I was walking like I was drunk, since I couldn’t walk in a straight line.

As I descended the snow got softer and slushier on the road and eventually disappeared totally a little before Molinaseca. It was raining quite hard on the lower descent. My goal had been to go through Molinaseca, 5 miles further to Ponferrada. When I arrived in Molinaseca I had been walking over 16 miles without stopping. There were no places out of the weather and with the snow/rain/wind you cool down super fast. I did stop for 30 seconds to drink and get a snack, but that was it.

Anyway, there was a restaurant open as soon as I reached Molinaseca, so I went in. I sat near a fire and had a big meal. About 5 minutes after arriving I looked to see what was available to stay here. A full apartment for 61 euro, 100 feet from the restaurant. OK, that sounds good. I had already paid 34 euros for a place to stay in Ponferrada, so I texted Netherlands and he will use the room tonight.

This place has a washing machine, good wifi and great heat. It is a couple who just started renting the space. I sent in my payroll and now am working on this journal. Tomorrow I have an extra 5 miles to reach Ponferrada, so a 19 mile day total. No big deal now.

Travel is the perfect catalyst for tolerance and acceptance. – Author unknown