Sunrise leaving Castrojeriz
Camino January 2026
Thursday January 15, 2026
Rabe de las Calzadas to Castrojeriz – 16.5 miles
My plan to get through Burgos worked out well. I got two nights in the city and kept moving at about 17 miles per day. Today’s forecast was for rain in the afternoon, so I walked 2.5 extra miles yesterday to make today shorter. I woke up early this morning, but waited till 7:30 to go downstairs and get a cab. I was dropped off right at 8:00.
The sun is supposed to be rising earlier each day, but I am moving west at 15 miles a day. Sunrise was 8:43 this morning, a couple minutes later than when I left SJPdP. It was still very dark 43 minutes before sunrise on a cloudy day. The dirt path had several mud puddles that I tried my best to avoid. Once it got a bit lighter it was no problem. Yes, I have a headlamp with me, but I try to avoid using it.
The first town was Hornillos. Nothing was open, but there were several construction workers making improvements in anticipation for the return of the pilgrims in March. I am still very much in farm country, so the tractors were out grooming the land.
The second (and last) town was Hontanas, 11 miles into my day. I cruised around looking for an open bar, but no luck, so I sat on a bench and started eating a snack. A few minutes later a gentleman walked up and asking if I wanted a coffee. He said he would open his bar for me. I followed him back and had a Cola Cao. His wife had seen me walk by and sent her husband out to find me. It was great to sit inside where it was warm and have a hot drink. They were super nice and both spoke some English which made the conversation much easier.
As I was leaving for the last 5.5 miles it started to mist. I had gotten an early start to try and beat the rain. Oh well. It started to really rain when I had about 2 miles to go. My rain jacket this year is way better than last year. I washed it and treated it before coming here. I arrived at my destination at 2:30. In the winter you need to keep moving to stay warm and there are very few places open to stop. I am physically feeling great, so the miles go by fairly quickly.
Arriving at the hostal I was greeted by Pepe, a mid sized black dog. He is super sweet. After dropping my stuff off and showering (and hanging stuff to dry) I went back downstairs. I few locals in the bar, but no pilgrims. They have a meal tonight at 7. Pepe went for a walk in the rain with his owner. When he returned, he crawled up into his chair and his owner covered him with a blanket. See photos.
I think I am the only one staying here, besides family. This place has 5 private rooms and a bunk area. At dinner a local came in and put 6 fresh eggs on the counter. He had had a beer earlier, so I am thinking that was probably his payment. I really enjoy the brief interactions with the locals. It is a much different pace in the winter when it is so quiet.
Friday January 16, 2026
Castrojeriz to Fromista – 15.7 miles
Today started with a beautiful sunrise as I was walking out of Castrojeriz. After a couple miles there is a steep, but relatively short, climb. Looking back at Castrojeriz it was totally cloudy and a fog was moving in. I was plenty warm from the climb, but I put on my jacket and gloves because a wind came with the fog. In the distance ahead I could see a pilgrim. He stopped at a rest area, so we chatted a bit. He took off before me, but stopped again at the first town. I think we saw each other 5 times during the day. He is a young German. He speaks some English so we were able to comunicate. I also passed a mom and daughter from Korea. There are two other Koreans on this schedule, so I am sure I will meet them soon.
The forecast was for rain this afternoon. With a winter walk you can’t stop for very long as you cool down quickly. I stopped at the only open bar I saw today. Even though I was inside I cooled down. It took me a while once walking again to warm up. Once I am moving I am fine. I also do not wear much while walking, just a tshirt, long sleeve shirt and my rain jacket. I have a fleece with me if it gets really cold. I also have a down jacket I wear in town at night. I arrived in Fromista at 2:30 and WhatsApped the hostess. She arrived 5 minutes later and let me in. I was afraid the restaurant across the street was going to close, so I headed over after dropping my pack off. As I am walking across the street it started to rain. It rained quite hard while I was eating. The rain stopped before I finished, so all is great.
Travel is the perfect catalyst for tolerance and acceptance. – Author unknown
Gary and Elizabeth's Adventures 