Ponferrada to Villafranca

In many situations optimists and pessimists are both right … However…optimists tend to be happier… It’s important to look for any possible silver linings…
https://latest-stuff.com/7-keys-to-feeling-happier

Day 30 – Ponferrada to Villafranca – 15.2 Miles

June 14

E: Ponferrada has a strong history from the 1100’s.

According to Wikipedia:

“Knights Templar, or simply the Templars, was a military order of the Catholic faith, and one of the wealthiest and most popular military orders in Western Christianity. They were founded circa 1119, headquartered on the Temple Mount in Jerusalem, and existed for nearly two centuries during the Middle Ages.”

According to CaminoWays.com:

“The Templars Castle of Ponferrada was constructed by Ferdinand II in 1178 AD to protect pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago. The castle was named after the famed Knights of Templar who protected the town in the 12th century.

The Knights were a fearsome unit, and one of the most skilled during the crusades. Having changed ownership a number of times, the castle is now owned by the King of Spain.”

The castle in Ponferrada. We stayed at Hotel El Castillo across the street. E at Camino marker.
The main plaza in Ponferrada
We love watching the local kids play.
E enjoying a street musician in Ponferrada
The church just off the main plaza in Ponferrada
E’s Camino arrows pedicure will only last one more toenail trim : (
A city street worker at 7AM as we were walking out.
The metal ground plaque is something about Ponferrada being designated a UNESCO site this year.
We took the great river walk out of Ponferrada again this year. The actual Camino is up to our left. You can see the river through the trees on the right.

Your emotions on the Camino can surprise you or others, especially at this stage, after 30 days of walking. Many people are walking to leave something behind or someone. It’s common to learn a 50 year old woman is recently divorced and walking alone; a Mexican young lady we met is trying to recover from being kidnapped in Mexico; some 18-24 year olds are taking a couple months before University or to decide if they will get a masters, change careers or move to a different country. My emotions hit me in Leon. I saw a woman that looked like my mom who passed away in 2000. Tears came hard and fast, unexpectedly. Gary agreed she looked like Betts too. Maybe it was??🥰 With all that said, rarely is someone negative. Most don’t wear their sorrows or burdens on their sleeves. But, occasionally the need to release your emotions arises and no one seeing this in others is surprised. We are all vulnerable at some point. This is an incredibly embracing and forgiving crowd.

Gift shop at Elizabeth’s favorite restaurant on the Camino. Moncloa de San Lazaro in Cacabelos.
We were the only clients at 11AM.
E’s roasted vegetable platter and G’s beef cheeks.
The courtyard at the restaurant. The sidewalk in front of G is the Camino
A lot of road walking today. Not much space on these narrow roads. Yes this is a two way street, plus walkers.
Lovin’ the flowers!
Friends we hadn’t seen in a couple weeks.
A small church along The Way today

Costs of things on the Camino have gone up since 2019, obviously, but they are still much more reasonable than in most places in the States. Lodging for 2, in a hotel, Casa Rural (used to be someone’s home, now similar to a B&B) and nice hostels (often they have a private room with a bath) range from $45-$90 a night. Fruits and veggies are bought by the kilogram so a large carrot yesterday was 18 euro cents. Dinner tonight, 5 of us with a drink each, was 65 Euro, about $70. Coffee (cafe) is usually about $1.50.

Oh, by the way, side note…don’t say you are going to a “Coffee Shop” to someone in The Netherlands! That’s what they call dispensaries!

Dearest Mark, back home in Phoenix, we have thought of you all day after speaking with you on the phone last night (for us in Spain) and put a good word in for your dearest pup, 15 year old Sierra at several cathedrals today. We are sorry that she passed away and that we were not there for you in person.

For me, being appreciative of what you have is a biproduct of walking the Camino. We are carrying everything on your back. We both feel, while we are on the Camino, this is all we need. We have a set of clean clothes in our pack and another set on our backs. We have bathroom essentials, rain gear, a hat/umbrella, good shoes, identification documents and money. What else does one truly need? Don’t get me wrong… I will miss having different clothes to wear after a total of our 7 weeks away from home. I love my conveniences like a washing machine and dryer, refrigerator and a car. We miss our adult kids and our dog! But temporarily, it is quite comfortable and humbling to just have what’s on our backs.

I think Gary’s middle name is “Patience”. Our morning routines could not be more different! He gets up, has a little to eat, fills his water bottle, packs his backpack, goes to the restroom and is ready to walk out the door. Me…on the other hand… I am slow to awaken in the morning (creaky!). I put my emersion heater into the coffee that I bought last night because I enjoy it first thing in the morning and often the cafes are not open when we are ready to leave in the AM. I look around the room and I have everything from my pack in a different location on the floor, on the chair, and have to look under the bed before I leave for a misplaced flip flop… But wait, there’s more. After I go to the bathroom, I put sunblock on my face, which is a different sun block than I put on my neck, back of my legs and my arms. I take longer after awakening to get hungry so after I eat I need to brush my teeth. I need to gather the items that I hand washed last night but forgot to pack before bed. I pull my hair into a ponytail, pack my backpack, take inventory of my waist belt (credential where the daily stamps go? Check; Passport? Check; credit card? Check, you get the idea). I grab my hiking sticks, my backpack…is the umbrella still attached? Check! I am about to exit the room for our morning walk and, of course, one last run to the bathroom! As I said, Gary is patient. But we really do travel well together!

The day finished with walking through vineyards!
The second of 6+ churches in Villafranca!
Inside the fourth church. E taking a photo of the stone ceiling.
Inside the fourth church. This is the only one we were able to go inside.
The Plaza Major in Villafranca. Our hotel is the white building straight ahead.
Inside our room.

Knowing that we have stayed in bunks many times in the past and not feeling guilty that we deserve and can afford saying in hotels each night for privacy has made this trip more comfortable. We strongly recommend staying in the Albergue bunks several times on your first Camino to experience the comradery of bunking with like minded travelers.

Cherries must be in season in this area as we have passed many people on the side of the road either selling or asking for donations in exchange for bags of cherries. One bar even had them for free like you’d normally have peanuts or pretzels available if you buy a beer.

Life is good.