Parade float in Pamplona
Camino – January 2025
“A year from now, you will wish you had started today.” – Karen Lamb
Day 4 – January 6
Pamplona to Puente la Reina 14.8 miles
Last night, after posting the journal it was 6:30PM my time. It was a Sunday night, but Monday is 3 Kings Day – a national holiday. I decided to go for a walk to see the Christmas lights at night. There were tons of people out but I didn’t think much of it until I arrived at the Plaza del Castillo (the main plaza). It was packed and barricades had a path around the perimeter. There were thousands of people on the ground and all the balconies were full. Sure enough, a parade was coming through. I sat on a bench for a while chatting with a 30 year old Chinese woman who is also walking the Camino. It is easy to pick out a fellow pilgrim. She loves to travel and speaks fairly good English. About 8pm the bands could be heard approaching the plaza. The next hour was one of the highest energy hours of my life. Bands, flag tossers, traditional floats, random groups, horses, camels, you name it. The crowd cheered the entire time. It was a very cool random experience. We were in Pamplona last May 4th and a local Star Wars (may the fourth be with you) parade went right by our table as we were eating lunch. It was also very cool. I texted pictures to Cooper, Chelsea and Elizabeth last night during the parade.
With sunrise at 8:45 and a rainy day forecast, I did not leave the hotel until after 8:30. Walking out of Pamplona was very quiet, no pilgrims and a holiday Monday for the locals. Once out of the city you have a long slow climb finally reaching Alto del Perdon. You do walk through a couple towns. I saw a Korean woman and a Korean man (not together). They were the only two walkers I had seen yesterday. When I reached Alto del Perdon my Florida friend was there, as well as the two Italians I had met on Day 1. I thought they were behind me, but they took a cab ahead yesterday morning and stayed in Pamplona last night as well.
This afternoon I stopped at a rare open café and as I was leaving, they arrived. Two of the three are staying at the same hotel as me tonight. The rains finally stopped about 1:30. The sun never came out, but the last 90 minutes of walking were dry. The temperatures stayed in the mid 40s all day. It is amazing, all the new growth in the fields. It looks like crops were planted in December. It is surprising how green things are in general, even with it winter here.
With it winter and a holiday, no restaurants are open in town for a hot meal. There are a few bars that have cold appetizers. I am ½ mile short of downtown (only hotel open), so decided to stay put and have a ham tortilla (the Spanish egg and potato dish) in the bar at this hotel. My two Italian friends were there. I think Florida is in his room sleeping. The Italians do not really speak English.
Day 5 – January 7
Puente la Reina to Estella 14.1 miles
Last night I did walk to the bridge and back (over ¾ mile each way) It feels good to get out and stretch the legs. It is very quiet. I did walk by a hostel that was open and saw 4 people inside, none familiar.
This morning was well below 32. All the cars and grass had lots of frost. The sky was clear, and the forecast good. As I walked I did pass a young Korean woman. I have passed her each of the past 3 days. She turned out to be the only pilgrim I saw all day. I did have breakfast with one of the Italians, but never saw him again. He is staying is Estella, but our paths never crossed. We are both going to Torres del Rio tomorrow – about 18 miles. Today’s walk brought us through several small towns. In town #4 there was a café open, so I stopped for a snack. It was after noon by this time and the clouds had arrived, along with some sprinkles. I checked the updated weather and sure enough, a band of light rain is coming through.
I checked in to my room, showered, washed a few clothes and headed out for some lunch. Last year with Cooper I had just missed a Chinese restaurant (they closed at 4), so this year I made it in time. I texted Cooper and gave him the news. It was good and probably the only Chinese I will get on the trail. Estella is a vibrant small city – population about 14 thousand. There were lots of locals out. Kids were playing in the main plaza, so fun to see the activity.
So far I have only had one pilgrim meal – Day 1 in Roncesvalles. Between slow winter, weekend and the holiday there have been very slim pickings on places to eat. The path is quieter than I even thought it would be. I also thought this would be a strong hiking group. I have yet to meet anyone that I would consider a strong hiker. Florida is the only person I have met from an English speaking country. There is a father/son from Baltimore that I have heard is nearby. They are doing a section hike.
“A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.” – Lao Tzue
Gary and Elizabeth's Adventures 