Mansilla de las Mulas to San Martin del Camino

I think you go to the left of the building

Camino January 2026

Wednesday January 21, 2026

Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon – 11.4 miles

Elizabeth pointed out how I talk a lot about the weather, which is very true. On the AT I had very few clothing options and was often out for days, so the weather really did not matter, plus it was summer, I did not even have long pants with me. Here I have many options on how to dress. Today was a perfect example. Last night the forecast was for rain all day. I planned to wear waterproof socks, my rain pants and of course my rain jacket. When I woke up it was cloudy, but no rain. The forecast was for rain to start after 3pm. OK, regular socks, no rain pants and I started out not wearing my jacket. The temperature had risen 10 degrees overnight to 42 when I started. About 2 miles in, it started to rain. OK, on with the jacket. I thought it was just a passing shower, but no. On with the pants. It rained all the way to Leon. I also put on my waterproof gloves to keep my hands warm. I did not wear gloves in the 30 degree temps yesterday, but the wet cools them down fast. With all the gear on I was fine. Today was fairly flat, so I did not sweat going up a hill.

The path parallels a highway. I noticed lots of tractors headed to Leon. Once in town there was a long procession going through the heart of the city, honking their horns. They were protesting a new trade agreement with South America.

With all the rain, past and forecast, I decided to buy a pack cover. My things are inside a waterproof bag, inside a trash bag in my pack, so all my stuff is dry at the end of the day. The problem is my pack is soaked and is difficult to dry out every night. I am hoping a pack cover will help. I had to go to 3 different outfitters to find the right cover. I literally walked over 3 miles around town going to the various outfitters.

I timed the afternoon rains well. The rain had basically stopped while I entered Leon. I checked into my place for the night and a shower came through while I was inside. I went out shopping then went to dinner and again a shower came through while I was eating. The rainbow picture is while I was walking to the third outfitter. The funny part is the sun came out between and after the showers.

Thursday January 22, 2026

Leon to San Martin del Camino – 15.4 miles

I mentioned how yesterday I went to three different outfitter stores. Here in Leon they all still have a siesta. I went to the first two during the morning opening. The third was open 10:00AM to 1:45PM, then again from 5:00PM to 8:15PM. And they all close on Sunday.

The weather was clear to start this morning. I took the photo of the cathedral about 30 minutes before sunrise – now 8:45. The forecast was for clouds to move in and rain to start about 4PM. I walked 15 miles west carrying just a day pack, planning to take a bus back to Leon from San Martin, then bussing back to San Martin in the morning. The bus ride is less than $3. The temperature was right around freezing as I was walking out of town. In some places the sidewalk was frozen and very slippery. It is about 5 miles of walking to get outside Leon and finally be on a dirt track. This is probably my least favorite day on the Camino. In the summer, we always take an alternate route starting just outside Leon. In the winter I would need to do a 22 mile day, as there are no services now on the alternate.

Part way through the day I passed Korea and her mom. They are both doing well and moving right along. I saw four other new pilgrims today. The path today mostly paralleled the N120, which is the same road that you follow most of the Camino Frances. It is a busy stretch being between Leon and Astorga.

The rain started at 1 and was very light until stopping about 2. That is when I arrived in San Martin. The bus was scheduled to come at 2:48, so I went to a nearby bar and had a snack. At 2:40 I was back at the bus stop. At 3:08, still no bus. How long do I wait before calling a cab? At 3:12 the bus finally showed, so all was good.

I briefly saw the mountains up ahead before the clouds again descended on them. Foncebadon has been getting quite a bit of snow (about 12” the past 3 days). I will be there in two nights. I am not sure if I will have wifi there, so my next post will probably be 3 days from now when I should be in Ponferrada.

Travel is the perfect catalyst for tolerance and acceptance. – Author unknown