Approaching Sahagun
Camino January 2026
Monday January 19, 2026
Ledigos to Bercianos del Real Camino – 16.1 miles
Last night I did not have wifi in my room, so I went to the bar to post. After posting I sat down with London and “the new guy” who is from Germany. He is quite the talker. He travels all over, but loves the US. He has been in Arizona many times and amazed me with the knowledge of all the town names he knows. He has been to most of the US National Parks as well.
At breakfast this morning they were both there as was the Korean mom and daughter. Ironically all 4 of us are headed to different spots tonight. Korea is doing 10 miles, I am doing 16, Germany 23 and London is planning on 26. As London and I are headed out the door in walks Argentina. He also did a couple big days to get ahead of the old group. He headed out with London and I. The three of us walked the first 10 miles together, then the other two kept going when I stopped in Sahagun. I got a pastry at the bakery and brought it into the café and got an orange juice. The café does not have any baked goods, so she suggested I go to bakery.
The morning was foggy all the way till noon. We had breakfast at 7:30, stopped 5 miles in for a cola cao and then I stopped in Sahagun. Between bars being open, walking with someone, and no rain the morning went quickly. Oh, yea. I texted the place I am staying tonight to confirm I am coming, so she will turn the heat on.
I officially passed the half way point of the walk. A young man from Ukraine was there with us. He is also staying at the same place as me tonight.
The kitchen is closed here tonight (Monday) so I will head to the supermarket at 5:30 to get some food. They are closed from 2:00 till 5:30. It is a supermarcado, but is much smaller than a typical Circle K in the US. I forgot to take a picture, but it is about the size of my living room at home. They have a little bit of everything. It is the downstairs of a woman’s house. I bought a large fresh baked roll, some cheese she cut for me, a bag of chips and a cookie and headed back to the small restaurant that was packed with locals playing cards. I ordered a beer and had my dinner.
A halfway bench. 380 km to Santiago or Roncesvalles 
Foggy day 
The official half way point, London standing, Ukraine sitting on the right 
The sun trying to burn off the fog at noon time Argentina, with London up ahead 
Wall art in Sahagun 
The sun finally came out 
A Renfe train going by 
A typical Albergue bar, all locals in the winter
Tuesday January 20, 2026
Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas – 16.3 miles
The Albergue I stayed at is run by an older couple. They are very nice. This morning they had hot croissants out of the oven. She had also made a Spanish tortilla (egg and potato dish). Both were great. With the tortilla she served hot bread, also just out of the oven.
Another foggy, frosty morning, but no rain in the forecast. Ukraine was the only other pilgrim to stay in Bercianos. He left before me, so I did not see anyone all day. Both towns we walked through were very quiet, no cafes open. The temperatures were in the low to mid 30s all day, so I took 2 breaks for no more than 2 or 3 minutes, so I would not cool down too much. While walking I stayed plenty warm. I did not use gloves all day and wore my coat about half the time. Really a great day for walking.
I arrived in Mansilla de las Mulas a bit after 2PM. That is one issue with the winter walk, you just keep moving, so you do the miles faster. There are more towns with albergues open this year, so people who want to walk longer miles can go between the main towns. I have been mostly sticking to the “regular” schedule. I am one day ahead. I think there are fewer walkers this January, but with more lodging options we all get more spread out as well. Like I stated yesterday, there were four of us at breakfast, going to four different destinations. It wouldn’t surprise me if I run into Argentina and/or London tomorrow in Leon. Amazing to think in 3 days I will be in Astorga. For me, the Camino gets much more interesting because the mountains return. I looked at the extended forecast for O Cebreiro today. For the next 10 days there is a 60% or greater chance of snow every day. The same is true for Foncebadon (cruz de ferro). My guess is I will see snow going over both mountains.
Travel is the perfect catalyst for tolerance and acceptance. – Author unknown
Gary and Elizabeth's Adventures 