The view leaving Granon
“Live life with no excuses, travel with no regret” – Oscar Wilde
Day 10 – January 12, 2025
Granon to Villafranca – 17.0 miles
Yesterday I had stopped at a grocery store in Santo Domingo, expecting everything to be closed in Granon. I had snacks, a light dinner and breakfast. I bought a ham and cheese croissant, a big cookie, a chocolate croissant, a yogurt with granola, a pint of fresh squeezed orange juice (I squeezed it myself) and a bag of potato chips for $10.
I slept in, did my payroll and invoicing this morning and didn’t start walking till 8:45 when it was light out. The path continues to be very quiet. I did see my 4 Korean friends. They were all together today. Normally you have the 2 teachers, a young lady and a young man. BTW – the teachers are on break until March 1. They basically go year round with another short break in the summer. Another thing I learned from them is their age is what year of life they are in. So from birth to their first birthday, they are 1. In the US we turn 1 after our first birthday. My dad passed away at the age of 79. He really wanted to make it to 80. He always told people he was in his 80th year of life.
On a similar note, in the US the ground floor is level 1. Here it is level 0. I stayed in a place a few days ago where the lobby was level 0, the next level up was the restaurant and the next floor was level 1. In the US it would have been the 3rd floor.
Florida is still moving right along. He is on the “normal” schedule. I walked 4 miles extra yesterday and another 3.5 extra today, so tomorrow I will walk extra again and be a day “ahead” so I can see who is around. FYI – Florida is 10 years younger than me. He loves to walk, but has never done a distance backpacking trip. He is planning to walk the Portuguese route this June with his daughter.
I again stopped today is the “scheduled” town since there was a restaurant open. I had a pizza for lunch and took out a croissant and some snacks to get me through tonight and breakfast tomorrow. All good, just need to plan ahead a bit.
Day 11 – January 13, 2025
Villafranca to Burgos – 21 miles
The cold has arrived. The temperature this morning was 21 and it reached 36 for a high. Throw in the breeze and it was quite chilly. Three days ago I had wanted to get a day ahead of “schedule”. Walking in the winter there are very few places open to eat and sleep, so you end up following the regular stages. In the summer we get off the “schedule” to avoid crowds. I also want to be on schedule to see people. Florida was planning to take a day off in Logrono, so I had no incentive to stay on this schedule, so I have walked extra each of the past few days. Yesterday I had an Albergue in Espinosa that would open for me – their words. I had tried a place in Villafranca, but she had told me she was closed. She texted me 30 minutes later and said she would open for me as well. This allowed me to walk an extra 2.5 miles and get within 26 miles of Burgos. My plan was to walk till about 4 and call a taxi. At 3:15 I had walked 21 miles and was in the outskirts of the city. I stopped at a restaurant and the bartender called me a cab. Neither the bartender nor the cab driver spoke English, so as we are driving I am checking my google maps to make sure we are going to the right spot. I just wanted to make sure I had understood well enough. All worked out great. I am staying in a nice hotel, and being in the city the employees do speak English.
Back to the walk. It was 7.5 miles to the first town. Nothing open. On to town #2, another 4.5 miles. On the way a biker passed me. He stopped to chat. He is from France doing a 3 month loop through Spain and Portugal and then back to his house in France. Not sure why he choose winter to ride. I ended up seeing him again in Burgos at the laundromat. In the second town everything was also closed. I asked a man getting out of his car for ideas. I knocked on a local’s door and asked him as well. The Spanish are so friendly and helpful. He did not know the guy but the two of them chatted and said “lo siento” sorry, nothing is open. I went to the albergue and tried the front door and it was unlocked. I sat on the stairs and got a hot chocolate out of the vending machine. A woman saw me who was opening the café next door in 30 minutes and she invited me in, so I had a warm spot and a bathroom. I bought a croissant and was on my way. So nice of everyone, and again no English was spoken and my Spanish is not good, so lots of hand gestures.
Now to continue walking. The sun was nice, but there was also a chilling wind. Today had quite a bit of road walking. At the 16 mile mark there was an open café. I got a coke and an order of french fries. There were about 8 locals, so nice to see people out and about. One woman had her two dogs inside with her.
In Burgos I did my laundry, got a few things at the pharmacy and had a great Italian dinner. I had a salad and lasagna with a fresh baked roll. The bar was packed, but I was the only one in the restaurant at 8 when I left.
Day 12 – January 14, 2025
Burgos to Hornillos (walking backwards) – 13.0 miles
I have not set an alarm on this trip. I was curious with an 8:45 sunrise if I would sleep in at all. At first, I did not sleep that well because of the time change and being in public sleeping areas. On about the third night I went for a private room and slept much better. Only one morning have I slept till 7am. That was after a long day and a late meal. Now I am in bed about 9 and awake by 6am. Depending where I am and where I am going I have been leaving between 7:30 and 8:30.
Today I had 13 miles to hike. I took a cab forward to Hornillos and walked backwards to Burgos. Hornillos is a small town. I arrived there about 8:30 after a 25 minute cab ride. I didn’t see a single person in town. Nothing was open. Even the albergue was empty. I was happy to be heading back to Burgos. Tomorrow I will get a cab and get dropped off in the same place, but walk west, instead of east. The temperature was 24 this morning. It still surprises me how many fields are planted and already growing. I included a picture from last may so you can see how green it is during the growing season. I was curious how many pilgrims I would see today. First up was my French bike rider. Then throughout the walk back I saw 10 people total. Six were young Koreans, I did see the 3 young French women again. They said “hola” but that was it. I only think they are French when I heard them talking amongst themselves. And finally, an older gentleman, but he was intent on walking past. He is the first over 40 year old I have seen since day 1 (not including Florida).
About half way through the day I was hoping to find a café open. The first town had none. I looked on Google maps and they showed one place in the second town. The reviews were mostly very negative how the bartender does not like Pilgrims. My initial reaction is that it is how you approach them. Not this guy. He was just a grumpy sole. I took my shoes off, as did a young Korean woman. We were both scolded. He was just very rough in the service department. Oh well.
Once I got back into Burgos I went to my favorite grocery store here – Dia. I bought some ham, cheese, croissants, fresh OJ and a cookie and sat in the sun in a park. About that time school was let out and all these elementary age kids come out. Parents are chatting. The kids start a soccer game on the brick park. The activity lasted over 30 minutes, no one was in a hurry to leave. It was a great lunch.
“A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.” – Lao Tzue
Gary and Elizabeth's Adventures 