Foncebadon to Las Herrerias

“Went in search of Wi-Fi, found clarity instead. Nature’s version of a software update!” – unknown

May 27  Foncebadon to Ponferrada

Today’s miles – 16.7 Total miles 359.4

Memorial Day, in the USA

“Originally called Decoration Day, from the early tradition of decorating graves with flowers, wreaths and flags, Memorial Day is a day for remembrance of those who have died in service to our country.” http://www.PBS.org 

Elizabeth:

The walk this morning started dark and early (5:45AM) as we made our way to Cruz de Ferro. We also reached the highest point on the Camino Frances, 1,500 meters (over 4,900 feet) in elevation. We did not see the sun rise, as the fog…as my mom would say…was thick as pea soup. But the tradition of placing a small stone or item to unload a burden or unwanted thought or stress was still accomplished. One thought behind the original cross’ origin, in the 11th century, was to guide pilgrims on the way to Santiago, especially in the winter months with snow covered paths. Ancient pilgrims were encouraged to contribute a larger stone, from one’s homeland, as donated material in building the cathedral in Santiago. (I will never complain about my pack of 14lbs!). The stone pile at Cruz de Ferro is said to be an example of “…Mounts of Mercury, which since Celtic times were erected by walkers in strategic places on the roads… later Christianized with crosses…”. Wikipedia.

I placed a small walnut, given to me by my friend Sherry, who for over 9 years has been warding off two cancers. Sherry has given me a stone for four Caminos, for me to place on the Cruz de Ferro to keep those cancers away! So far, so good. We made sure to keep up the effective ritual, and not take any chances, so I placed her chosen “stone” the little walnut on the pile after carrying it almost 400 miles in my backpack. The nut came from Sherry’s and my weekend at Terra Farm and Manor in Prescott, AZ last fall. A fabulous weekend of Spanish foods, wines, cooking classes and exceptional guest service. Sherry found the walnut at the farm. Ironically, not only did I drop it in Spain after a Spanish foodie weekend but Iberico pigs are raised on Terra Farm and the breed originates from Spain and Portugal. Iberico pigs are fed acorns and walnuts as a staple in their diet. Sherry: may your health remain positive and strong and the cancers remain dormant on the pile at Cruz de Ferro 🥰

There were two other items I left at the cross. A coworker of mine, in her early 30’s, has recently recovered from breast cancer. I placed a small silver charm that reads ” For You” for her. I also carried this item from home and told her I would leave her cancer in Spain as well. Britta: may you remain well for many years to come!

The last item I placed, was unexpected and actually given to me on The Way by a vendor in a small town. Gary’s mom’s health, in Vermont, is failing at 93. The clay charm that I placed on the pile at Cruz de Ferro is for Earline. May she always remember she is loved and thought of day and night. May any unrest she feels be left here in Spain. Peace be with you 🙏   

Enjoy a photo journal of our day!

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.” – Anthony Bourdain

May 28  Ponferrada to Villafranca

Today’s miles – 15.5 Total miles 374.9

I have been avoiding negative content in these entries but honesty feel it is very important for readers to get a factual picture of our journey, and, for me to move forward, physically and mentally. 

Somewhere between 8 and 12 miles, my legs tell me that I am done for the day. Sometimes it is cramps in my muscles (I have increased magnesium and potassium intake via tablets in my water), sometimes it’s been my femoral nerve below my knee hollering at me, then my knee or ankle joint acts up. After nearly 400 miles walking, these almost 65 yr. old joints and ligaments should have gotten the message that this daily walking is supposed to be routine, but, nope, they are not getting the message. All will be good soon, I am sure. I never fail to acknowledge my gratefulness for being able to be here, with my family, in good health. Why do I do this? Because I can. Many others are unable, for whatever reason, to make this experience a reality. I am truly enjoying learning from all of this. 

Yesterday was a lot of downhill and I knew what was coming (more downhill!), so I walked the first 9 miles and then took a taxi the remaining 3miles into the most beautiful town of Molinaseca. I chose mental calm and muscle relaxing over increased knee pain. Molinaseca is a riverside village with good food and a wonderful vibe. Perfect atmosphere for me to regroup. Pilgrims know that “The Camino Provides”. It gifted me with the most wonderful volunteer at a church before Molinaseca. She tried calling a taxi for me, twice, with no success so she offered to take me to the town herself, in her personal car. I offered her 20 euro for the inconvenience, and as expected with these very humble villagers, she refused the offer but put my backpack in her trunk and motioned for me to get in her car.  After getting out of the car at a beautiful ancient bridge in Molinaseca, I offered her the €20, again she refused.  I then proceeded to tell her in my broken Spanish, that 10 euro was for gasoline and 10 was for her church. She bowed her head, now unable to refuse and accepted the bill. I gave her a hug and we both smiled as she departed back to her small village to resume her volunteer duties at the small church. Both of us are better for the interaction. I am grateful for her generosity; she completely changed my mood and the car and church benefited as well 🙂.

With full encouragement and support from my family here, I am changing my strategy/my approach to doing my own Camino. I continually praise those who do Caminos in their individual ways so now it’s time I accept to do the same. Some pilgrims take buses, some call taxis, others only do a portion of the path and send their luggage ahead, and, as the woman I met at breakfast today, some have done multiple Caminos in sections. 10 years ago, she did the Frances “with” her husband. She walked from St Jean to Santiago. She only walked the portions she enjoyed and met her husband each night. He drove a support car for her the entire way. She has done 5 Caminos so far and I would guess she’s in her late 60’s, early 70’s.  This year she is again choosing the portions of The Way that she prefers and is taxiing the parts that do not resonate with her. She is an inspiration for me to not feel guilty for choosing to do the Camino my way this year. I have chosen to do less miles each day and either go ahead or catch up to my family as the path, my knees/legs, my mind or my mood encourages. I am writing this after sleeping in until 8:30AM; I had a large coffee and a croissant with jam; I am back on my bed with an ice pack on my knee feeling content, relaxed and relieved to be taking it slowly. I will meet G, C & C at one of my favorite places for lunch on the Camino Frances. Mancloa de San Larzaro restaurant in Cacabalis, about 9 miles west of Ponferrada where I am now, via taxi. My choice to slow down allows the family to walk faster (their preferred pace) without continually looking w…a…y back and waiting for me. And, I will be in a great state of mind after taking a day off today, and anytime in the future, my mind or body requires.

The lunch stop in Cacabelos was as amazing as I hoped and measured up to my hype to the kids for days!  Chelsea loved the gift shop with tons of natural products, successfully subduing her urge to try them all! Purchases means mas kilos in our mochilas! (more weight in our backpacks!). We enjoyed seeing the new wedding/event space they have added, including beautiful glass doors to a lovely outdoor space. We shared a large grilled veggie platter; yummy, gooey, warm, grilled goat cheese with fresh homemade bread and Gary had mashed potatoes and beef cheeks…don’t knock it till you’ve tried it! Very much like brisket. When in Spain!

Our home sweet home for tonight is Posada Plaza Mayor in Villafranca. Nice room overlooking the town square. The kids have their own room as well.

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May 29  Villafranca to Las Herrerias

Today’s miles – 14.3 Total miles 389.2

Chelsea and I took a day off, the entire day! I have never done that before on the Camino. The two guys headed out at 7AM to walk up and over the mountain, an alternate route, out of Villafranca to Las Herrerias. Chelsea and I went down for coffee at 8AM then back to our respective rooms. I took a bath, packed up, joined Chelsea for breakfast at 10AM and we took a taxi at 11 to meet the guys in Las Herrerias. Chelsea’s been struggling with a left knee and right shin pain and I gladly offered to join her on her day of rest due to my knee appreciating the long break. 

Las Herrerias is a very small village and where Cooper, Chelsea and I will ride to O’cebreiro on horseback in the morning! I have been up the hill on Victor’s caballos 4 times before! The 5 mile, 2,100 foot vertical climb is fun for Gary, but me? I get to be on the same trail and see the same scenery from about 7ft higher off the path, sitting down 😜 A new experience for C & C so should be awesome, again!

What we find in a soul mate is not something to tame, but something wild to run with.

Robert Brault