Espinal to Puenta la Reina

Elizabeth

May 3 – Espinal to Larrasoana

G and E’s 38th Anniversary!

I awakened sore and tired after the two days in the Pyrenees rocked my hamstrings, quads, knees, and Gary & Chelsea’s feet. A little muscle cream, a Band-Aid or two, ok I took a muscle relaxant at night as well : ) and we were off. 

We covered 12 miles today to Larrasoana. We stopped after 4 miles for cafe con leche, chocolate croissants, a slice of Spanish tortilla (an egg, potato, cheese and onion, quiche-like, slice, but no crust) and of course we went into Zubiri (population 400+) later on for ice cream, burning it off during the final 6 miles of the day!

I had a rough day with really sore leg muscles and my knee swelled up again. Nothing new during my first few days on these Caminos, past and present. Today’s walk took me a long time. Gary offered, on two occasions throughout the day, to carry my pack but I was stubborn and refused. But about 1/2 mile from our day’s final destination, two South African guys came up to me. One took my pack…he didn’t take my “no thank you” answer when he asked to carry it for me. The other walked my snail’s pace the rest of the way beside me. Gary, Cooper and Chelsea had previously forged ahead to get the rooms. We later met these two guys – who made my first ” The Camino Provides” experience a wonderful one – at a restaurant patio for dinner and drinks. Gary had planned for us to celebrate at this very simple market/restaurant patio for our 38^th anniversary. The wine, a simple antipasto, ensalada mixta (green salad), baked chicken, risotto and a tortilla, along with the company made for a memorable evening. Good thing we had a fridge at Casa Tao where we were staying for some leftovers!

After returning to our bed and breakfast style accommodations, we wrote, organized and posted the journal. I took a hot bath with Epsom salts, a very small amount I had brought with me from home and we were all in bed by 9pm. 

Elizabeth

Saturday, May 4 – Larrasoana to Pamplona

We were joined at breakfast by a woman from Alaska. She was a wonderful inspiration for us all.  She is walking the Camino, hiked the A.T. and P.C.T. years ago, retired from Boeing, is currently a small plane pilot and she’s 85 years young! She is not on any medication and eats very healthy. A great way to start our day!

Cooper put his Camino shell on his backpack today. Hesitating at first, thinking it was a bit “hokey” as he called it, until the restaurant owner last night told him he sees the shell on Pilgrim’s backpacks as an open invitation, a way to collect information in your life from those around you…like our Alaskan elder this morning. Cooper, as we all have, was already reaping the benefits of listening to wisdom, experiences, beliefs and teachings of others on this trip, so the shell was hung.

Chelsea is impressing me with her love and growing knowledge of herbs. She and Cooper have been identifying and collecting different plants each day. Last night they enjoyed hot tea made with wild thyme, plantain leaves and violets!! Today she wrapped plantain plant leaves on her little blister forming on her pinky toe. She gathered the plantain’s flower seeds to drink as well, which can assist with digestion & constipation. It appears to be a miracle plant!

Walking into Pamplona today we took the route along the river vs. walking in town (the traditional Camino route) which is on sidewalks, beside city traffic. We stopped at the Plaza de Toros, the famous bull ring. Gary and I did a self-guided tour last year. Gary, Cooper and Chelsea toured it today. No bulls or matadors active at the time but the bullfighting is still legal in Spain. Pamplona is the location of the well-known Running of the Bulls in July of each year with the Corrida/”bull fighting” occurring March through October. Regardless of anyone’s feeling re: the practice, the tradition of this “sport” is strong in local history. I did not go into the arena this time, opting to be the keeper of the mochilas/backpacks. I enjoyed a much needed and appreciated nap, with my feet up, on a park bench, under two trees, just outside the arena.

Yesterday’s “The Camino Provides” assistance from our two South African friends, now living in the UK, continued in Pamplona. I was searching for a table for the four of us, at Cafe Iruna in the very busy Plaza Mayor, when I hear, ” Elizabeth!”. There they were, at a table big enough for us all! We enjoyed a lovely afternoon meal together and said goodbye to one of them as he heads home today. Dave, who is continuing on to Santiago, and the 4 of us, parted with the heart felt assurance that our paths will cross again!

While at Café Iruna we all witnessed a wonderful Star Wars themed parade. We later learned it was for breast cancer. The theme was “May the 4^th Be With You!”, very clever play on the Star Wars quote: “May The Force Be With You”.

May 5 – Pamplona to Puente la Reina

Total miles walked to date – 56.5

The ” it’s almost summer Saturday night” celebrations were definitely running full force in the streets of Pamplona into the wee hours. Although our room was overlooking the partyers, our window shutters drown out most of the sound but our floor roomies were coming in from 11pm till 5am this morning. So, needless to say, I look forward to a good night’s sleep…tomorrow night!

Cooper and Chelsea enjoyed the rowdy and fun festivities! They found music to dance to in the streets and found themselves jumping up and down with loads of young people singing American songs in Spanish!

We have so much enjoyed having the kids with us. We have shared in-depth and philosophical talks over private dinners. We’ve shared the joy of group dinners with other Pilgrims from around the world. We sometimes walk all four of us together, with just one other family member, with other’s walking The Way and each of us alone. We’ve been sharing blister care, picture taking ideas, snacks and coffee sitting on a curb outside a small 1600’s village’s crowded café. We have been sleeping in private rooms with our own bathrooms or shared with others. The kids have been experiencing some private accommodations and the true Camino group bunk rooms all while meeting a variety of mutual adventurers of all ages in the same room.

The weather has been all over the place. It’s cool in the mornings, can be windy or cloudy and then today the sun came out and it was warm and 70 degrees. A friend of ours commented on our blog asking how we dry out our shoes from the mud, snow (early on) or rain. The first night we had a wood stove in our room so we gathered the kid’s backpacks and sneakers and placed them in our toasty habitacion. The other way to dry out your shoes is to remove the inserts and place newspaper inside the shoe. It doesn’t always work. Gary and I carry a second pair of inserts and always have dry socks with us so even if the shoe is wet, changing out the inserts and socks for dry ones helps. Luckily, northern Spain will be dry and warm as we continue. Now, as I write this, it’s been lightning and raining at 7pm. One of my home state of Vermont’s sayings…If you don’t like the weather, just wait a minute! As I finish this sentence, the rain hesitates, sky clears a bit and out our bedroom window tonight is of large storks flying past the 1500s church steeple across the road here in Puente La Reina – The Queen’s Bridge – pop. 2,800ish. The 11^th century queen had the bridge built for the Pilgrims to cross the Rio Arga, the same bridge we will traverse on our way out of town tomorrow morning!

What we find in a soul mate is not something to tame, but something wild to run with.

Robert Brault