El Burgo Ranero to Ocina de la Valdoncia

I love walking because it clears your mind, enriches the soul, takes away stress, and opens up your eyes to a whole new world. ~Claudette Dudley

Day 22 – El Burgo Ranero to Puenta Villarente – 15.8 Miles

June 8, 2023

The Camino de Santiago, The Way of Saint James, is explained very well in a foreword by Marcelino Oreja Aguirre, Secretary General of the Council of Europe in 2020.  “The Ten Ideas on The Camino de Santiago” was written by Fernando Santos Urbaneja. Mr. Aguirre says:

“Everything under the tenant of spirituality and humanism, which is not only about respecting strangers but helping and sharing ideas and possessions with them…cooperation rather than competitiveness…”.

He continues by saying,

“After a few hours of pilgrimage, one is swept away by the sense of camaraderie fueled by shared enthusiasm; acceptance and tolerance reign among all those making the pilgrimage. A group of pilgrims is, at its finest, …an ideal replica of what the community (meaning, around the world) could become.”

Reading the following quote, from above mentioned book, put what Gary and I have felt for many years, but could not place into words. The people are so welcoming, all the Spaniards on the Camino are willing to go out of their way to help pilgrims. They will drive you in their personal cars if they cannot find a taxi for you. They will physically walk you to the restaurant you cannot find, even when they are running a business of their own at the time. If you cannot find an accommodation, they will make telephone calls to help you find a place to sleep that night. And most are warm and friendly if you approach them with an effort to appreciate their customs with a positive attitude and a smile. No matter your language, your religious beliefs, or your reason for walking the Camino, the town’s residents; the farmer in the field; the business owner or child in the plaza, all are willing to accept, appreciate and assist you…even before you ask!

 “For centuries, the inhabitants of the towns and cities on the Camino have been inundated with information from pilgrims who dressed and spoke differently and had other customs, resulting in a more open and tolerant mindset.”
(From The Ten Ideas on The Camino de Santiago.)

This reminds me of a Buddhist writing, shared with me by my sister recently.
Many do not know that we are here in this world to live in harmony. Those who know this, do not fight against each other.

Today was cooler, in the high 60’s and over cast while we were walking. The thunderstorms came rolling in not long after we arrived at San Pelayo, a lovely renovated horse barn. See pictures above and below. This is our 4^th time staying here and we adjust our walk to do so. It will leave us a short 7 mile trek into Leon in the morning.
We enjoyed a group meal which we have not done too many times this trip but always appreciate the comradery with international pilgrims. We plan to stay in the Leon (pop. 150,000) just long enough to enjoy a good meal near the cathedral. Tour the church and will then stay the night about 7 miles west, outside the city limits.

Day 23 – Puenta Villarente to Ocina de la Valdoncia – 14.7 miles

June 9, 2023

E: We had lunch in Leon with Kath from Australia. She started her Camino in Burgos where we met her at a cafe. After a lovely chat with her one day while walking, she used an Aussie term to describe our conversation. She said “Thank you for the wonderful chin wag.” Gotta love those Aussie terms! Many pilgrims are staying in Leon a day or two but hopefully our little bubble of Camino friends will be walking with us again in the near future as we walk slowly (Ok, I walk slowly) and we are taking a rest day near and in O Cebreiro next weekend so I am sure some will reconnect with us by then.

Random notes:

• Gary left a pair of sneakers and my muscle roller at the monastery in Sahagun. He bought new Solomons which he is used to at home and they are wider than the Asics he came with. The muscle roller was great but I can do without it.

• Some items I brought that I haven’t used yet:

1. A bandana. I have learned over the years to “Farmer John” when my nose is running while hiking so I do not need Kleenex or a bandana. Gross to some, but efficient. I have wipes for before I eat along The Way or for use for that emergency #2…when you gotta go ya gotta go.
2. I brought a brimmed hat but find that my umbrella is the best in sun. Also have a sun protection long sleeved shirt with a hood and secure it with my visor if too windy for the Brolly, as the Aussies say.
3. Hand cream. Used it on previous Caminos but this time I think the water is treated a bit now since COVID so the water is not so hard. Haven’t used it yet. Might ditch (donate it to another pilgrim) the little 3oz tube soon.

• Items I use daily and would never leave home without:

1. My Brolly! I have used it almost daily. Sun and rain. Attaches to my pack, 8 oz. 100% UV protection. Cooler than a hat and it covers my backpack if it’s raining a bit too.
2. My dress. I wear it every night after a shower, into town and to bed, unless it’s too cold.  
3. Travel mug and immersion heater. I make hot water in the AM if we do not have access to coffee right away and herbal tea at night on occasion. No kitchen necessary. Just a plug.
4. Tupperware container to place a peach, tomato, leftover bread, cheese, etc. in so it won’t squish in the pack.
5. My puffy! I have worn my down jacket several times, often in the morning or evenings. Especially in the stone churches and restaurants in small towns. No heat or AC in any place on the Camino, after winter, even if it’s 40 outside at night.
6. Gary has the FarOut App and we use it all the time during the day. Some of the route has changed but we like the green routes/alternatives. The dirt roads. The yellow arrow or shell directionals often send you through towns or along roads. We like the rural paths better.
7. Brierley’s book can assist with lodging, history of towns, directions/routes/options and planning. Just be aware that it’s updated to some extent, annually but not everything is current.
8. Booking.com – easy, keeps track of lodging. Be aware that not all places are on Booking and it is more expensive for the business. We call or email as many places as we can to book lodging directly and to confirm or change a reservation.

G: The Leon cathedral is an amazing structure. The building was started in 1255. They used “modern” construction techniques which allowed for thinner walls and all the stained glass. Leon had a population of about 5,000 people when the cathedral was first built. Construction was completed in 1301.

It is actually the third cathedral built on the current site. The first was built in 916.

We continue to use the Camino Companion app. It has been purchased by Far Out Guides. Personally, I feel it is not quite as good as previously. There are many apps available now. We have heard good things about Wise Pilgrim, but their apps don’t work well off line, but if you have data they work great. The books tend to be outdated. There is so much information that it is difficult to keep current. The apps have comments from walkers who leave updates which can be very helpful. 

Word of mouth still works well while walking. Other Pilgrims often know a good place to stay or eat. Many, like ourselves, have been here before. Our friend Rodney, from Australia, is walking for the 9th time. We saw him multiple times today in Leon. We also saw many others we have met previously who are staying in Leon for the night.

It is pouring again as we are about to publish this. We have had amazing luck with the weather. It has rained on us while walking only one day. It has rained every night for probably the past 5 or 6 nights. Today at lunch in Leon we were sitting outside when our server said she had a table inside if we wanted. Sure enough about 5 minutes later it was pouring. Today was in the 60s again.

“The purpose of life is to live it, to taste it, to experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience.” – Eleanor Roosevelt