Blue Ridge Parkway Boone, NC to Shenandoah National Park

Day 3 on the BRP – Boone, NC to Hillsville, VA

Sunday August 14, 2022 – Elizabeth:

We are heading north from Boone, NC today on the Blue Ridge Parkway. The views and topography are different now. More residential farmlands, cows, lower mountains. It’s sunny, mostly clear and 60 degrees at roughly 3700 feet.

We have been walking on the Mountain to Sea Trail.

Wikipedia:

The Mountains-to-Sea State Trail is a long-distance trail for hiking and backpacking, that traverses North Carolina from the Great Smoky Mountains to the Outer Banks. The trail’s western endpoint is at Clingman’s Dome, where it connects to the Appalachian Trail in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Length: 1,175 mi (1,891 km)
Location: North Carolina, United States
Highest point: Mount Mitchell
Elevation change: 6,684 ft (2,037 m)
Lowest point: Pamlico Sound

Jesse Brown Cabin can be walked to from the Tompkins Knob Overlook at milepost (MP) 272. This was our first adventure of the day and probably one of Rangeley’s favorite. Plenty of grass, wooded hike and not a soul around! The Preacher Brown built the cabin in 1840 about ½ mile from its current location. A similar time period Baptist church was replicated on this spot.

Just a short way north is parking for the E. B. Jeffress Cascades…before the visitor center. The roughly .4 mile hike passes nature markers explaining the various flora in the area. Black, white and scarlet oaks; Dogwood, Walnut & Black Locust trees; highbush blueberries, mountain laurel and more rhododendron. The many stairs to the viewing of the cascades were beautifully hand laid local stones and rustic handrails made from local tree branches. Rangeley was a happy hiker yet again, we were all alone for close to a half hour, in the woods with a stream to play in!

Tom Dula (pronounced Dooley) is a real person from North Carolina and became the subject of a 1958 song by The Kingston Trio…you know…  “Hang down your head, Tom Dooley…”  I didn’t know it was about a real soldier who was accused of killing his girlfriend in 1866 nor did I realize it was about his hanging. There was a sign at one of the BRP pull offs (The Lump Overlook) at 3400+ ft. The location is ironically beautiful.

Unfortunately, we were unable to drive every mile of the BRP. There have been two detours so far. First one was a cracked road being repaired at milepost 276. And, near Doughton Park Visitor Center a bridge is out. We stopped for lunch at The Bluffs located next to the visitor center. Good choice. They did not have any outdoor seating so we ordered take out and sat next door at a table in front of the visitor center. Gary had a NC BBQ with pulled pork and brisket and I had pecan crushed trout, collards greens and Brussel sprout slaw. True southern vittles.

Across the street and above the visitor center is a view of the Caudill House in Basin Cove below.  Harrison Caudill built the house in the late 1880’s but the growing community of about 50 homesteads, a church, school and store were all destroyed, except the Caudill’s home, in a torrential rain storm and mud slide in 1916. Most of the people in the community got out safely. Caudill was the father of 14 children and was one of 22 kids himself! Ironically, we met a descendant of the Caudells in the parking lot. He initially was asking Gary about the Appalachian Trail from Gary’s AT bumper sticker. You never know who you’ll converse with!

Roughly two miles north of the Doughton VC is the late 1800’s Brinegar Cabin, granary and springhouse that survived the 1916 floods as well. Martin and Caroline Brinegar lived here with three children and a grandchild until in 1935 Caroline, now widowed, sold the property to the State of NC to preserve. 

We got our hikes, outdoor lunch and homestead touring adventures done just in time for an afternoon shower. Makes me thankful for a car and hotel tonight vs. being in the 1880s. Back then you would have been in a wet cold 10×10 ft cabin with many other family members; still needing to make the shirt for your husband from the wool you got off your sheep; the veggies need to be picked from the garden; the wood cut for the fireplace where dinner will be cooked… and the chicken you need to “process” for dinner is still running around in the yard! Phew, a lot of ongoing work, every day back then!

One last stop before we head to Hillsville, VA for the night. We crossed the state line into Virginia just before pulling into the Blue Ridge Music Center. We enjoyed a few Blue Ridge Appalachian songs by live musical artists under a roof. I toured the music museum where I saw beautiful banjos, fiddles, dulcimers and auto harps from yesteryear and today. I played the auto harp in elementary school in Vermont and an extended family member crafted me a beautiful wooden dulcimer with heart shaped sound holes, which I learned to play in jr. high and high school. It was a fun adventure of sights, sounds and memories to end the day.

Rangeley is curled up in the back of the car, sound asleep after a very stimulating day. There were many more compliments re: his behavior and looks today. We watch the rain pounding on the car’s hood and windshield and we hear the swishing and squeaking song of wiper blades as we drive the 12 miles into Hillsville, VA for the night. 

BRP Day 4  on the BRP Hillsville, VA to Troutville, VA 8/15/22

Elizabeth:

Today began in an eerie way. First, our weather this morning is best described as “completely fogged in”.  Second, the history of our first stop could be called either a historical tragedy or a wonderous marvel. Let me explain: We visited the Puckett Cabin. The 1837 born, married at 16, Orleana Hawks Puckett, had 24 pregnancies – all were either still born or died in infancy. At age 50 she became a midwife and delivered 1000 babies until 1939, the year she died. The controversy surrounding her own babies, from the articles I read were… did she have a condition that prevented her from having healthy babies? Or did she and her husband end the newborn’s lives? Did she become a midwife to repent her own sins? Or delivered other’s children because she could not have a family of her own? Like I said, eerie.

Orleana, born in 1837, was considered a wonderfully caring and nice person and it is recorded that with all 1000 babies delivered, she never lost a child or mother to any fault of her own. And…in 1939 she died at 102 years of age! I like to believe she was a good person with a sad inability to have healthy little ones of her own.

Mabry Mill and Restaurant was a destination we were looking forward to since last night. We both ordered their specialty, pancakes. Gary ordered one blueberry, one pecan and one sweet potato pancake and I got the pecan and sweet potato. Topped with our own Vermont Maple Syrup we proceeded to devour each pancake that measured the length of a fork from tongs to tip of handle! Rangeley was very good in the car while we ate. We almost always eat on patios at dog friendly restaurants but there’s not much for food on this section of the Parkway, no outdoor seating and it was wet outside. It’s still foggy and 60 degrees so Rangeley didn’t mind the short time in the car.

As you might imagine, after a meal like that, we needed to walk. Gary got Rangeley out of the car and we walked next door to the Mabry Mill. We met a friendly retired gentleman that works there on Monday and Tuesdays. He educates those that wish to know how this 1800’s mill used to work. If you haven’t gathered by now, we are intrigued by the late 1800’s cabin building and manufacturing of building supplies. Hopefully some of this history and stories of those that came before us is somewhat interesting to you too! I have added pictures of some of the informational/educational plaques into our slide shows for your schooling pleasure : )

We have been seeing a lot of deer (around 15 or more) throughout the morning, on this cool, overcast day. It’s Monday and drizzling so not much traffic on the BRP. I think the deer like the lack of roaring motorcycles, RVs and cars zooming by. As you will see…or not see, in this case… due to the low clouds, there are no panoramic scenic pictures for your viewing pleasure today! 

We’ve seen several artists painting on canvas along the roadside who are competing this week in a juried art show. Gary told one guy that the sky won’t be difficult to paint…white. Gary kept jokingly asking me if I wanted to pull over at the scenic overlooks. I told him, no thanks. He smiled and added, “Good, ‘cause I can’t see the signs or the turnoffs for any of them anyway!” : )

We did find Rocky Knob turn off and took a hike there to Rock Castle Gorge Overlook. I know, silly, nothing to see but dense fog. But Rangeley loves the stops where there’s plenty of mowed grass for him to run (near the parking areas) and woods to hike in. The hike reminded me of Costa Rica with all the over grown trees and narrow path. Very tropical looking with all the rain they have had. Rock Castle Gorge is named for the crystals that are in the mountains and when the sun shines just right, they create a castle looking shape. We had to imagine this phenom as we were lucky to be able to see a mire several feet ahead at the most.

Rakes Mill Pond was right on the BRP north of Rocky Knob. I thought the advertising genius of sawmill owner Mr. Rakes. He dammed the stream near his sawmill and allowed his customers to picnic and fish while waiting for their milling order to be done. It drew more people to his mill.

The rain has held off, even though it’s thick as pea soup, so good time for one more historical cabin stop! Trail Cabin is on 500 acres in the Smart View Recreation Area right on the BRP, milepost 154. This home is an example of a rough log building style of this time period, constructed in the 1890’s by the Trail Family. A life of tough daily chores to survive but a very enticing, peaceful, down to earth way to live.

We are again being detoured off the Parkway from Adney Gap, MP 135 onto Route 221 roughly 20 miles south of Roanoke, VA and we are bummed we are unable to drive yet another section of the BRP.  The road ahead has been damaged by hillside slides due to severe rains. I shouldn’t complain. I feel badly for those that like right on the BRP these days, as they are in danger of mud slides, flooding and road closures not unlike their ancestors.

I have been feeling sad/disappointed that we had planned to visit two elders down south here but both have been exposed to ill people and asked that we not visit. I believe you might remember, from our previous journals, 91 yr. old Barb in Lynchburg, VA. We took her to do Trail Magic (giving out food and drink to AT hikers) with us on the BRP this past May (2022). She’s a high school classmate of Gary’s parents. Barb is fine but has been with others in her retirement community who are now quarantined with Covid : (  She said it would not be wise to stop by. Hopefully we can see both Barb and our Greenville, SC previous neighbor in Phoenix on our next road trip.

We cut the day short to head to the hotel, write this journal, load up the pics and Rangeley’s favorite chore: make his meals! Rangeley eats all raw meals that we prepare from scratch. Gary buys beef, chicken, liver, sweet potato puree, fresh spinach, we add vitamins and freeze meals in baggies…even while on the road. Gary sounds like a butcher, sitting on the hotel bathroom floor, while cutting the pup’s food up, on a cutting board we bring, to put into meal size portions. We have the hotels freeze some of it and we travel with it in an ARTIC cooler. I think he eats better than we do! I know, spoiled.

Tomorrow we drive to mile post “0” of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Roanoke, VA to Waynesboro, VA, at the southern border of Shenandoah National Park. Our last day on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

BRP Day 5 – Last day on the BRP Troutville, VA to Shenandoah NP   8/16/22

Elizabeth:

We had so much fun having breakfast later in the morning on the road yesterday we decided to do it again, vs. eating at the hotel or snacking and getting lunch later in the day. Peaks of Otter Inn and Restaurant is roughly 20 miles from our Roanoke hotel. We will have our morning meal there today. 

Our drive began in dense clouds, again. The access roads and views at overlooks were virtually invisible until a few feet before the turn. We came up behind one of the many cyclists we have encountered this week but, today, we didn’t see him until we were just a couple yards behind him! The BRP would be a beautiful bike ride and we understand the visual draw, but the possible dangers that there are no bike lines and the roads can be filled with gawking tourists driving by, scares the bejeebies out of me!

We found our first sighting of the Appalachian Trail (AT) this trip! at Taylor Mountain Overlook. AT mile 744.7 on Gary’s AT app which is well-known by hikers as the Guthook App, although it has been bought by FarOut this past spring. The pictures are in the mist and the “AT” markers are hard to see, but they are there : )

The picture with the pink hibiscus flowers is the AT trail going back into the woods at Peaks of Otter overlook sign. On the upper left is caterpillar nests in the trees , the “AT” painted in white is on the wooden post mid-left and the white mark on the tree in the woods is the official trail marker for the AT.

We’ve seen deer, several groundhog or marmot cute looking guys and wild turkeys in our travels today. It’s chilly for mid-August, 59 degrees at 9AM at 2,000 ft in elevation. That’s a dite nippy for us Phoenicians and we’re lovin’ it!

Peaks of Otter Restaurant is on Abbott Lake, a large pond with a paved 1-mile loop around it. Rangeley was the “otter” in the water within seconds of being off lead! Shhh, no one was around the lake area so we let him loose! He is amazingly well behaved when loose on trails and when no one is around. Gary has done a fabulous job of teaching him to be a good traveler and hiker.

On the lake’s loop trail is Polly Wood’s Ordinary cabin. Ordinary was what an Inn was called. Polly would cater to the “ordinary” traveler providing a meal, a bed and a place for their horse between 1830 and 1850.

Rangeley settled down in the car after our 1-mile romp around the lake.  We often wish we had a mile counter on him as he must have done at least 10 miles! He was in and out of the water, running ahead of us, returning to tell us to get moving faster and spinning around to run ahead again! One could say he is definitely living the “Lab” of luxury!!

As mentioned above, Gary and I enjoyed breakfast at the Peaks Restaurant. I’m sure the view of the lake would be beautiful from the large windows…on a clear day : ) We would like to stay here if we come through this area again. It’s very dog friendly and lovely. 

Meeting people along the way is such a cool part of traveling. Today we met a couple with Vermont plates which started a conversation. We lived in VT for over 35 years and Rangeley being a social magnet, a wonderful conversation ensued. She’s a traveling respiratory therapist. She, her husband and 13 yr. old son travel to various jobs for 13-week contracts. We are familiar with traveling, this being our 4th road trip of 9,000 miles or more each, and, we moved 9 times in 5 years when Gary was establishing himself in the construction management field back in the 1980’s. This couple had been all over the US and we thoroughly enjoyed sharing stories. We love these impromptu chats proving the saying “It’s a small world” is really true. We were all chatting in a parking lot in VA, 750 miles from our family in VT where we are headed next, and they are heading to VT as well, for her 13-week travel job, and…they are renting a house 20 miles from Gary’s sister.

We took time to walk a couple miles on the AT, entering at Thunder Ridge Overlook, on the BRP, in the George Washington National Forest, SW of Lynchburg, VA. Although we couldn’t see any views, the forest is spectacular in the mist. Rangeley accidently flushed out a grouse. The tall yellow daisy looking wild Coneflowers (echinacea) were abundant on this trek. I always enjoy Gary’s AT stories of when he walked through here on his section hike in 2018 and his thru hike in 2014. 

The James River at the James River Visitor Center (which was closed in May and again this trip – Aug.) is the low point of the BRP at 649 ft. As you can see from the two photos, one looking up stream (west) the other looking east, the clouds did not follow us down the hill! We quickly climbed (drove) back up to over 2,500 feet and our misty views returned. It’s 1:30pm and down to 57 degrees again. Burr. Doesn’t Mother Nature know it’s August? It’s been great having the Parkway to ourselves. Between the cooler weather, rain or clouds and schools are back in session, there’s hardly anyone traveling this stretch right now.

I found a sweet little hike at Yankee Horse Ridge pull off, BRP MP 34. Wigwam Falls is a short hike from this parking lot and a small section of a logging railroad crosses the stream below the falls. The craggy boulders, railroad tracks turned walking path, lush wet greenery from the rains and the well carved out loop trail from the parking lot to the falls and back made this one of our favorite short stops.

The last adventure on the BRP was at Humpback Rocks Visitor Center MP 5. Gary hiked over Humpback Mt while hiking the AT which is very close to the visitor center. There’s a self-guided outdoor farm museum here. The buildings are original but they were collected from various local locations and placed here for lovers of the late 1800’s – like me – to tour and read about…even in the pouring rain! Gary and Rangeley hung out in the car while I donned my rain jacket, grabbed my umbrella and a laminated map the wonderful woman in the small visitor center let me borrow and walked around what felt like a real late 1800’s working farm. The property did not disappoint. 

We took pictures of our last BRP sign at the north end of the BRP and a picture of the first Shenandoah National Park sign you would see if you drive south to north on Skyline Drive (which we have already done). In between these two signs is a very small “0” mile marker for both fabulous drives.

Although we had to detour a few times due to mud slides, a bridge out and cracked roads, our south to north Blue Ridge Parkway adventure was everything we had hoped for and more. Would nicer weather have been appreciated? Yes, but we loved the eerie misty days too. Would it have been exciting to encounter a bear? Yes, but Gary saw 15 bears on his AT thru hike (2014) adding, “If you count the two in the zoo the AT goes through and the one in Cabela’s store!”.

Our next adventure in a few days will be in Vermont visiting Gary’s family. Stay tuned!!

Live simply, love well, breathe, appreciate life.