Bercianos to Leon

Yup – still on the Meseta!

Camino January 2025

Bercianos to Mansilla de los Mulas – 16.5 miles

January 20, 2025

Last night was fun at dinner. The locals all came by to play Dominos and cards. While I was eating a young Korean came in and I actually helped him check in. He spoke some English, but no Spanish. Then my friend from China showed up. His blister is doing much better.

The forecast was for snow, changing to rain during the night. It was pouring when I went to bed, but no snow or rain when I woke up. It was a balmy 36 degrees. The high today was 40. It is supposed to rain again tonight.

I was asked what I do about my bookings if my plans change. I have been booking a room only one, sometimes two days ahead, so I have not changed any reservations so far. My destinations have changed a few times, but that is because of not being able to find a room in my first choice. The first two nights I was in a bunk, but have gone to getting a private room, ideally in a place where there are bunks, because that is where the majority of the walkers stay. The advantage of a private room, besides the privacy is.

I do not like foot boards as I sleep on my stomach and hang my feet over the end of the bed.
Private rooms come with pillows and towels, as well as blankets, so no sleeping bag.
I can sit up in the bed and work on my computer, hard to do on a bunkbed
I can bring my shoes and pack in the room with me, especially nice when cold and wet

Yesterday afternoon when I got to my room it was very cold. The heat had been off. The winter rates are higher, because of the heating costs. By the time I went to bed it was plenty warm.

This morning breakfast was great. The hostess had made a fresh Spanish Tortilla and the Danish and croissants were hot out of her oven. No fresh squeezed OJ, but no complaints from me.

Today’s walk was along a road the entire day. Very low traffic as the main highway was also parallel, but about ½ mile away. The train tracks were also nearby – I saw I think 6 trains today. Compare that to the two Pilgrims, a few locals, 4 cats and 1 dog.

As a follow up to this experience, having done this walk multiple times and I have tons of great memories, so when I see something familiar the memories come back. Today I walked by one of many rest stops. In 2016 we met a French family and their 2 daughters really took to Elizabeth even though they couldn’t communicate in the traditional sense. The girls didn’t speak English and Elizabeth didn’t speak French, but they still certainly communicated. See photos.

This was my 18^th day of walking. So far I have stayed a familiar hotel/hostal only 3 times. And 11 of the 18 nights have been in new towns. The next 5 nights could all be new towns as well.

My room tonight was chosen for two reasons. Italy is staying here and it is part of an Italian restaurant. Well, the restaurant is closed on Mondays and Italy isn’t feeling well, so he is crashed in the room next door. The only other restaurant open today closed at 3:30 and reopens at 8. I will head to the grocery store and get food. Tomorrow I will be in Leon, so there should be lots of options, plus I only have 11 miles, so should be there early.

“The Boys” playing Dominoes.
El Burgo Ranero church
Still on the Meseta
Same rest stop we saw the French Family
The French family we met in 2016
Another cat sheriff. Where are the dogs?
Welcome to Mansilla de las Mulas

Mansilla to Leon – 11.5miles

January 21, 2025

It actually warmed up through the night. This morning was 44 with a light rain. It was exactly the same 4 ½ hours later when I arrived in Leon. I used my umbrella for the third time this trip. I did not use it day 1 in the rain as I chose to use my poles hiking uphill through the woods. With flat terrain I carry my sticks and use the umbrella. Elizabeth has hers hands free, so she can do both poles and have the umbrella up. I have the hardware to do that, but just have not bothered.

I did see my young South Korean friend this morning, but he was the only person. I waited till 8:30 to leave this morning since it was a short day. I heard Italy leave about 7:30 and I never caught him. On this trip I have been staying on the main path. Partly because normally we do every alternate, so there is quite a bit I have never scene and the other reason is for safety. Everyone else is walking the primary route, so if something were to happen, someone will be coming up behind me. Today was a perfect example of why we like the alternates. Normally we stay in the fields along the road until we are almost to Leon. The marked route brings you down to the main road about 2 miles sooner. So today I had a lot of sidewalk walking. I didn’t bother with pictures.

Once in Leon I stopped at probably my favorite grocery store for a late breakfast. Elizabeth and I have stopped here before. I got my fresh squeezed orange juice, fresh natas and a chocolate muffin. I sat at the warm, dry tables inside the front of the store and watched everyone check out. Life is good.

The chocolate salami can be made with any type chocolate. The one we had was not milk chocolate. It was more like a semi sweet by US standards.

Last night Florida went to the same albergue Italy and I were at. He just wanted dinner as he was staying in a new place in town. He was the first person this year to stay in the new place. I am not sure how he found out about it. Where I stayed didn’t have anyone staying there, so they closed at 3PM. So Florida didn’t have anywhere to eat. Everyone recommends making a reservation the day before. If you walk in to town late in the day a place could close. Twice I have had people say they would open for me when I contacted them the day before arrival.

One benefit of walking this time of year is I am over half way done and still have plenty of room in my Compostela. Normally we fill two. I am lucky if I get one stamp a day. The place I am staying had all virtual check in. I have not seen anyone else here.