“The very basic core of a man’s living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun.” ― Christopher McCandless
May 11 Azofra to Granon
Today’s miles – 14.2 Total miles 136.2
Elizabeth:
We met the kids at a cafe for breakfast. We all seemed to have slept well. Another warm (80F) day. It started out at about 50F at 7:30AM but between walking and the sun shining, the long sleeved shirts come off pretty rapidly.
One of the towns we go through is, well, politely said, odd. Ciruena, population 142, was built around a golf course. They built town houses, apartments and duplexes, I am guessing for more than 1000, in the 1960’s but it’s pretty desolate nowadays. It looks like generic, military or the ‘Stepford Wives’ movie housing.
The terrain was quite different today. We could see for many miles. See pics of the trail where you can see way in the distance, heading towards Santo Domingo.
There was a festival in Santo Domingo with parades and tomorrow they will have bulls and horses “performing” in a ring. No matadors. Cooper and Chelsea stayed in that town until 7pm…we left to finish the last 4 miles of the day into Granon at around 1:30. They arrived at 9pm, wet and tired but had fun!!
Gary and I went to the 7pm mass in Granon, saying a few internal words for Gary’s mom, Earline.
We all stayed at Donde Christina, a Casa Rural (a rural house) that we have stayed at two previous years. We really enjoy the owner, Christina, who leaves fresh flowers, fruit, bread, coffee/tea and homemade flan for her guests. This year there were 5 other people here as well as the 4 of us, but the kitchen and living space is plenty spacious (see pictures) above). We all have our own rooms (each couple) with a private bath.
May 12 Granon to Villafranca
Today’s miles – 17.2 Total miles 153.4
Elizabeth: Happy Mother’s Day!
I decided to send my pack ahead to lighten the load on my legs. For 6 euro ($7) they pick it up and drop it off at the next town you are stopping at. Today is a 17.2 mile day so I walked roughly 10 miles with a day pack to Belarado, we all had lunch and I took a taxi the 7+ additional miles to Villafranca.
We have stayed at San Anton Abad Hotel in Villafranca before. The kids enjoyed communal beds (not bunks, about 12 or so single beds in the room with half wall dividers between every two beds) G and I had booked a room with a private bath. The 4 of us had a very in depth and open conversation yet again. Cooper mentioned how wonderful these impromptu, sometimes serious and sometimes religious, political or even detail info of our pasts talks have been. The Camino seems to bring honesty and true sharing to the forefront. Cooper even mentioned his enjoyment of the lack of, insignificant small talk when speaking with perfect strangers. The openness of people along the Camino is very unique and wonderful. Maybe because you may not see these people after the Camino again. Maybe it’s just the natural surrounding/outdoors and lack of stress here that allows for freedom of speech. Whatever the reason it is very common to have detailed conversations with strangers and be surrounded by people with positive outlooks.
Gary spoke with his mom today so that was a relief. He also spoke with his sister Linell and told me that he and Linell wanted to encourage me to take a day off to mentally and physically heal. I have so much more excitement ahead. So, I agreed.
Backing up a little bit… after checking us all in, while the kids and Gary were still walking this way, I enjoyed a salad and sangria outside with some other Americans for close to 3 hours. As an Aussie from last year calls it, we had a wonderful “chin wag”…a great conversation.
The kids arrived at about 7pm (two hours after Gary rolled in) as they enjoyed a lovely cafe conversation with a 30 something year old who they refer to as Princess Caroline in the previous town. They also have named a guy named Paul, Apostle Paul. He is a very tall and soft spoken 30-40 yr old. Makes conversations with others clearer when you can identify people ; )
May 13 Villafranca to Cardenuela Riopico
Today’s miles – 15.2 Total miles 168.6
Elizabeth:
This morning was an amazing and relaxing start to my day. My choice to rest today is good for everyone. Gary, Cooper and Chelsea got up and had breakfast at 7AM and headed out up the hill into the woods. I am calling myself a Tortuga today. Spanish for tortoise. Like the fable of The Tortoise and the Hare, I will get to my destination for the day just as everyone who is walking, just at a different speed and means.
The sun is shining in the hotel window so I washed some socks and undergarments and hung them to dry as I will not be leaving until 11:30 this morning! I lazily got up, ran a hot bath – with lavender oil I brought from home – laid a towel on the hotel floor and stretched for almost a half hour. Ahhhhh!
I headed down to breakfast, included with our room, at about 9:00 a.m. I spent the next 45 minutes enjoying a conversation with three international women who were heading out to the same town as we will be staying in tonight. They were very encouraging and complimentary that I am ‘experiencing my own Camino’ and choosing good mental and physical health over pushing too hard and potentially not making it the rest of the way. They reminded me that Santiago is the goal, no matter how you get there, and enjoying the journey is most important. Although I am very clear on that, it is nice to hear multiple people encouraging me to put Elizabeth first. Thank you Linell, Gary and these women, who collectively encouraged me to do what I need and not be internally swayed to do what I think I ” should” do. My pride and competitiveness makes it difficult for me to take time off but today’s break…perfecto!
I checked out at 11AM, waited for my taxi and with my leg elevated, read a little of a novel on my phone. Calm and quiet.
Gary: Cooper, Chelsea and I had a leisurely breakfast as we were thinking we would have an “easy” 15 mile day. Chelsea was having a problem with a blister and was tired from a long day yesterday and noisy roommates last night. She contemplated taking the taxi with Elizabeth, but ultimately decided to take off with Cooper and I. Her plan was if ½ mile in she could always decide to return to the hotel. The morning walk was a beautiful path through the woods. She was feeling good, so lets go! We were talking how we had a reasonable day today, then a short (10 mile) day into Burgos tomorrow. Next thing you know, they decided to do the 25 miles into Burgos today and take a rest day tomorrow. So much for a leisurely walk. We stopped twice in the 15 miles to where Elizabeth was waiting for us. I stayed there and C and C moved on. We averaged over 2.6 mph even with the 2 – 20 minute stops. Chelsea did an awesome job! They are still walking to Burgos as I write this.
The walking itself was fairly uneventful. We enjoyed conversations with other pilgrims along the way.
What we find in a soul mate is not something to tame, but something wild to run with.
Robert Brault
Gary and Elizabeth's Adventures 