Astorga to Ponferrada

Just dropped off in Foncebadon. to walk back to Astorga.

“Life is about the adventures you take and the memories you make. So travel often and live life with open eyes and an open heart.”— Katie Grissom

January 24, 2025

Astorga to Foncebadon – 15.8 miles (backwards)

Today was a great day for walking – no rain, cloudy and in the 30s to start and 44 when I finished. I kept my jacket on all day, but was never cold. I have been staying in the bigger towns where there is some activity and food. This morning a walked about 100 meters to a taxi stand and got a ride to Foncebadon and walked backwards. Two added advantages were I went further today (15.8 miles) as there was no lodging in Foncebadon. I would have had to stay in Rabanal and walked 3 less miles today, but 3 more tomorrow. The other fun part is walking backwards I get to see everybody. I also started 3 miles past the people a day ahead of me. I saw 12 people in the first wave, the people who stayed in Rabanal last night. 9 of the 12 were Korean, including my 2 teacher friends. It was great seeing them again.

Also in the first group was a gentleman from Belgium. He looked familiar so I asked if he had walked the Camino previously. Yes, this is Camino number 14 for him. In fact he loves it so much he moved to Larrasoana (a small town on the Camino, right before Pamplona). I said that’s it. He owns the shop at the end of town we love. We have made a point of stopping there our past 3 Caminos. We actually celebrated our anniversary last May with Cooper and Chelsea there. In Europe anniversary often means birthday. He said he wanted to say hi to Elizabeth and for me to do a video of him. So I did and sent to Elizabeth. What a fun random meeting. I went online and found a number for the shop and sent a note. The number was from 10 years ago and the person didn’t know the current number.

A bit later, I started crossing the second wave of walkers. It was people coming out of Astorga. Everyone was very confused as to why I was walking backwards. The funny part is I knew 8 of the 10 people who are walking on my schedule. So, not many people out here, but you get to know a high percentage. When you walk you tend to look down at the ground and you also don’t expect to know anyone walking toward you. It was fun, the different reactions. My two young Korean ladies were about 20 feet away when they recognized me. They had big smiles and waves. My China friend with the blisters is doing well now. I will be walking in the same direction with this group of 10 tomorrow.

The last person I saw was Italy. Astorga is known for chocolate. There are several factories here and tons of shops selling all kinds of chocolate. Italy bought about 2 pounds of chocolate and is now carrying it. He has been carrying a full bottle of wine he was given the first week. He plans to drink the wine in Santiago. Good thing he is a strong 35 year old.

I had a deadline to get back to town today. The pizza place closes at 3PM and does not reopen till 7:30PM. I got back shortly after 2, so plenty of time. Later I will go back out to the grocery store and get breakfast things and stuff for lunch tomorrow. The first food tomorrow is probably 11 miles in.

January 25, 2025

Foncebadon to Ponferrada – 17.8 miles

I had gone to the grocery store last night for breakfast and snacks. I bought ham, cheese and a roll to make a sandwich today. Turns out the first open café was 13.5 miles in. This morning started about 8:15 in the dark. I was at 4,600’, it was 36 degrees and it started pouring just after the cab dropped me off. I had rain pants, but was not wearing them. Bad choice. My pants were soaked by the time I got them on. I knew the forecast was for rain and snow most of the day up high. This is the highest stretch of the Camino. I climbed to 4,900’and then you go along a ridge for 4 – 5 miles before dropping down in elevation. The part of the forecast I missed was the high wind warning. It was tough regulating your body temp. When climbing you warm up. Then you get on the exposed ridge with the rain and wind it gets very cold. My umbrella was useless today.

1.4 miles in is the cruz de ferro. I had a stone I carried from home to leave here for our friend in Phoenix. This is the 6^th time in the past 10 years we have done this. Our friend had 2 cancers and was given 3 – 5 years to live in 2015. Now she plays tennis regularly and is in total remission. My friend from China was also there. He was hoping for a sunrise. No suck luck today. The sun did rise, but it was a cold, dark, gray morning. I started to cool off, so wanted to keep moving along the ridge.

A couple miles later I had this feeling someone was behind me. I turned around and there is this 100+ pound dog in the trail, about 100’ behind me. We are over 3 miles from any village. He startled me. I spoke to him in a firm voice and he slowly wondered off, kind of circling me. Not sure what his story is. I had dropped my umbrella, but didn’t realize it right away. I got about ¼ mile down the path before realizing my error. Bummer, I hate adding ½ mile to an already long day in the rain and cold.

My first true stop was about 6 miles in when I came to a patch of trees and was able to get out of the wind. I had a drink and a snack but moved on quickly as I got cold right away. Soon after I dropped in elevation quickly. This made a huge difference as I got out of the clouds and wind and the temps were in the 40s. As I approached the first town I passed my 2 Korean young lady friends. They are a bit more “talkative” each time. I also passed the Barcelona couple. The husband wanted a selfie with me. He speaks no English, so it was fun. They are only out here for a week.

After the town I stopped for a snack at a bench. A young Korean gentleman stopped and asked if I wanted him to take my picture. Again very minimal English, basically phone and photo. I also passed a single young Korean woman, so 7 people total today.

Once at the bottom in Molinaseca it was very pleasant, sunny, no wind, so I took off my jacket and walked in just my long sleeve shirt. The 4.5 miles from there to Ponferrada are fairly forgettable. The first half is on a sidewalk, then back roads into Ponferrada. We have stayed in Ponferrada previously, so this time I walked ½ mile further into a section of town I had never been in. I am staying in a nice clean place, quite roomy, with a desk, for $42.00.

“A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.” – Lao Tzue