Day 5 – Vila Praia de Ancora to A Gaurdia, Spain – April 15, 2024
Today’s miles – 11.9 Total Miles – 77.4
The slowing down has been great. I am not on a schedule and again today the spacing worked out to do 11.9 miles or 17.5. Another easy decision. I have a plan to get to Santiago, but am booking 1 night ahead. The trail will be getting busier, but so far no problems with booking a room. As I have mentioned before, we (the Camino walkers) are a small part of the tourism through here. Many places are not even open yet. Last night’s hotel (10 rooms) was 50% full, all walkers. I was chatting with the general manager and he said probably 80% of his business this time of year is from the Camino.
As you can see from the photos the scenery continues to be stunning. The first 6 miles were our last in Portugal. Today was another windy day, so glad I have a drawstring on my sun hat. No way you could wear a ball cap today. We passed a farmer who had his herd of goats with him. I didn’t see a building or farm anywhere around so not sure his story. He spoke only Portuguese, so we weren’t able to easily communicate and he wasn’t very interested, so no bother pushing it. After being right on the water most of the morning we had to cut inland to catch the ferry across the Minho River. This walk through the forest was also beautiful. The path we took wasn’t on the app and was against the arrow markings. Not sure why, because it sure was a nice walk. The marked route followed a dirt road. I knew I couldn’t get lost because you have the ocean on one side and the road on the other.
I wasn’t sure how the ferry to Spain worked. I had heard a couple stories and online was also a bit confusing. When we arrived at the “taxi station” it was closed. We figured we needed to go into the city of Caminah and catch the big ferry that also carries cars across. As we are walking we see a small boat transporting people and sure enough this is another option. He could take up to 5 people. So me, my New Zealand friend and two women from Zurich hopped on. Another woman who we had just met continued into town as she didn’t want any part of the small boat with the high winds and rough water. It was 6 euro and included a free salt water shower. On the Spain side he pulled up to the beach and you had to jump to the sand. Not for everyone, but I sure felt I got my monies worth.
About ½ mile later was a beautiful hotel with a deck overlooking the water. There was 1 other person besides us four boat mates. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch and not a single other person came by. We watched several pilgrims walk on by as well. Soon after, there were all these trees that had interesting painting on them. It took a minute but figured out if you stood in the exact right spot three trees would make one pattern. As soon as you moved from that spot the pattern was all jumbled, very clever.
Finding open places to eat is a challenge. Restaurants are closed from 4 to 8 and being off season many are not even open. I did finally see a group of Americans today. The second person I met was from Chandler, AZ, just a few miles from where I live.
Spain, the fort straight ahead and Portugal to the left. 
Not a bad place to stop for lunch. 
My first ensalada mixta in Spain. 
Several very cool paintings in the trees. 
Same trees from a different angle. 
The groundskeepers keeping the grass short. 
An ancient salt basin. Originally from 1 AD 
The views continue to be spectacular. 
Inside the church by my hotel in A Gaurdia.
Day 6 –A Gaurdia to Vilasesuso – April 17, 2024
Today’s miles – 11.6 Total Miles – 89.0
I asked my New Zealand friend today if she thought the women on the path were more or less than 75% of the walkers. Her reply was more, close to 90% of the walkers are women. I was thinking 80-90% myself. Then I asked her about age, more or less than 75% are over age 50. Again, her answer was well over 75% of the walkers are over 50. I think I have spoken to only 2 or 3 single guys out here and neither spoke good English. So there are the very unofficial results of my survey.
The path in Spain is well marked. The regular coastal route did not cross the Minho River yesterday, so no more confusing which route to take. The sand beaches are gone and a rocky coastline has taken its place. Most street signs and directional signs are in Galician, not Spanish. That was also true of the menu at lunch. The languages are close, but I couldn’t understand several things on the menu. Google translate to the rescue.
I said the path is now well marked, but that didn’t keep me from missing a turn. I ended up in a swamp. At first I thought I could make it through the area but realized it wasn’t worth it. With wet feet I had to walk back almost a half mile to the missed turn. Oh well. The trail today was quite varied. The ocean was rarely out of view. The path now has small ups and downs and there are hills to our right and no where near as many homes. I have been enjoying this walk more every day. Today was the first day that the majority of people on the path were Pilgrims and not locals.
Enjoy the pictures. I am not really in a writing mode this evening. Let me know in the comments if you have any questions or topics you would like me to cover.
What we find in a soul mate is not something to tame, but something wild to run with.
Robert Brault
Gary and Elizabeth's Adventures 